Tag Archives: steel

Skagen’s Solar is an Eco-Friendly Choice

Skagen has sent us info on the Henrickson solar powered watch, which retails at £169.

They claim it can last for six months on just a few hours solar charge, plus it has a steel case which is 50% recycled metal.

For lovers of all things woke, the strap is made from eco leather too, which is not leather at all. It’s bits of bark n plants etc. So that’s brill, you are helping the planet and a solar cell should last ten years, rather than the typical 2 year button cell battery lifespan.

It’s a decent looking, slimline, modernist watch too. 40mm case size should fit most wrists nicely.

More here.

Raven Trekker Is A Cool, Class Act. Pricey Though

The latest watch from Raven is this edition of the Trekker featuring ceramic or stainless steel bezels, date or no-date movements, a newly designed flat jubilee bracelet with easy to size single sided screws, brushed stainless steel case with polished accents, and available dial colors in black, gray, and yellow.

The 39mm steel case tool watch has a sapphire crystal, screwdown crown and a depth rating of 300m. It’s got a striking steel bracelet too, with a smooth, brushed finish that really gives this watch an impressive look in the press photos. The only downside is the cost, at $750. That’s a bit steep for a Miyota powered auto, even one as classy as this one.

On the upside the blue version of the Trekker is on early bird special offer  – $50 off – until March 31st. More here. 

Seals Launch Sea Storm Skin Diver – $300 Pre-Order Deals

Seals have a new model on pre-order. The Sea Storm is a sports/casual dive watch with 150m depth rating, optional date window and six different dial colur choices. It’s due to be delivered in April and the pre-order cost is $300. There is a $15 US-UK shipping charge too, plus any taxes that Customs levy too of course.

Here’s some spec details from US brand Seals;

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

  • Case Diameter 38.00mm
  • Case Height 11.10 Without Crystal
  • Sapphire Crystal Boxed With Anti-reflective Coating On The Inside
  • Lug To Lug Length Is 47mm
  • Lug Width Is 20mm
  • Rotating Bezel 120 Clicks, Unidirectional
  • Water Resistance 150 Meters
  • Screw-down Crown, Signed and 7.00mm Diameter
  • Case Material 316L Stainless Steel
  • Hands are Rhodium plated with C3 SuperLumiNova
  • Bezel Markings employ the typeface Decimal by Hoefler & Co
  • Date Complication

MIYOTA 9015 MOVEMENT SPECIFICATIONS

  • Power Reserve 42 Hours
  • Vibrations 28800 Per Hour
  • Jewels 24
  • Functions Include Stop / Hacking Seconds, Quick Date Set
  • Winding Automatic or Manual
  • Stock Accuracy -10~+30 sec per day

FINISHING NOTES

The case finish of the “Sea Storm” will be comparable to its classical inspirations but more modern, consistent with our brand’s DNA. The case sides will have a vertical satin-brushed finish. Between the lugs to be sandblasted as to protect from spring bar scuffing. The top-down facing case surface will be circular satin-brushed and have a slightly polished bevel outside the lug edges that tapers toward the case centre.

Verdict: Great spec for the money and although it isn’t a serious dive watch this has all the right elements fro a durable life on holiday doing some snorkelling, plus daily wear just for it’s indie style. the Sea Storm is also a great name for a watch – just saying!

 

Watch Care: Common Problems With Bracelet Links

Thought I would offer some tips on bracelets and the typical problems that tend to crop up, let’s start with sizing issues, which often means removing/adding a link. On some watches that can be fairly easy to do, especially if the links are identical, not tapered so that the ones near the clasp get gradually narrower.

So you need a special link pin pusher tool, which you can get online for about a tenner. It’s good to have a vice, small hammer and a selection of pin-pusher tools so you can tap out some bracelet pins. Before you start look closely through a magnifying glass at the ends of the pins – are they already slotted for a screwdriver blade at one end? Good, don’t hit the pin!

Then they probably have tiny end caps on, which screw out. Don’t lose them, they are extremely small. They are often pins that only go in one way, wheras a cheaper watch might have pins that tap in from either end.

Some Swiss brands like to put pins inside little sleeves that sit inside the central link section. Almost like roller-bearing crankshafts in cars and motorbike engines. You often see this on two-tone or Jubilee type bracelets. As you remove the pin the insert sleeve will drop out – be ready to catch it on your bench or table. These are very difficult to get back in properly but you must fit them, or the pin will fall out when the watch is worn.

Many watches have little arrows next to the four-eight link pins that come out, indicating that they can only be removed in the direction of the arrow. Reverse that rocess when re-fitting the pins. Look closely and you will see one end is slightly bigger than the other and this is why they are a `one way’ fitment.

See the spring-loaded lever on the left, that grips the pin when the clasp is folded over.

Adjusting the clasp on watch bracelets can also demand a delicate touch. One type of clasp that goives trouble is the type where a male end pin presses into a hole, and there is a spring loaded actuator mechanism, normally two tiny wings on the clasp, which act as a release.

Dirt can get inside and jam the lever that should grab the pin. Try watch movement cleaner, or a wash in warm water to get the dirt out. Be wary of using too much force in trying the get the gripping lever to slide across, it will need careful manipulation – very easy to damage it.

Some gents watches have a clasp that folds across, then a band goes over. Often the sides of this clasp have two or three holes where the end link can be moved along, thus making the bracelet a fraction smaller. Good in winter when your wrist will be samller in cold weather. You have to prise out one end of the pin in the end link, move it along the clasp to the next hole, then do the same at the other end. Be careful the pin doesn’t ping out as they are spring-loaded. A tiny screwdiver or pin pusher will help put pressure on the end of the pin, or a cocktail stick maybe.

Hope these tips help you, always take your time and buy decent tools.

TAG Monaco Gets Steel Bracelet

The TAG Monaco has been a popular watch with collectors for decades. The square case, chrono functions, plus some marketing magic from the late Steve McQueen has helped this watch stand out from the crowd. For years, the movement inside was nothing special frankly, but now fitted with the in-house Cal 02 movement it has a bit more appeal for aficianados.

It has 80 hours of power reserve and features a clutch mechanism, so that when the chronograph functions are being used the watch keeps ticking, meaning no loss of timekeeping accuracy. The 02 series is a bit slimmer than the 01, so the Monaco has a less chunky appearance on the wrist than its predecessors.

 

Now fitted with a steel bracelet, the Monaco still has a mix of motorsport looks and dressier style, so it looks sharp with a suit. Maybe it always did? The bracelet is a homage to the original one fitted to the Monaco way back in the 80s and features a tapered link design, plus butterfly clasp.

At 39mm wide, the Monaco isn’t too big and there are black and blue dial colours. You can get the black dial model with a leather strap too. Price is expected to be around £5100 in the UK.

 

 

Draken Launch Benguela 500m Dive Model on Kickstarter at £296

NZ based Indie band Draken are launching a new Benguela dive model on the Kickstarter platform, and the specs look very good for a tool watch.

Dive rating is 500m, sapphire crystal, 316 steel case, 43mm. There’s a 120 click unidirectional bezel too, plus plenty of lume in the right places. Three colour options, lovely deep blue, a freshly mown lawn green and trad black.

Yep, helium escape valve too. It’s a proper watch.

draken kickstarter dive watch 1
Steel bracelet looks superbly finished as well.

There is a Seiko automatic movement inside, which is great for reliability as the NH35 is in many an Indie watch. Also keeps the price down, so it retails at just under £300 for the early bird buyers. Delivery expected next April – fully funded at 44K already.

We love watches like this all day long; tough, well designed, useful for decades with some TLC and all for the same price as some blingy designer label quartz from H Samuel. You can’t go wrong.

More here. 

Ball Pathbreaker Rene Dreyfus Limited Edition

Ball have sent us info on a speciall 330-piece production run of the Pathbreaker, Rene Dreyfus edition.

Produced to salute a racing driver from the early days of road racing, the Dreyfus has the Ball foldover springlock on the winding crown, luminous tubes on the dial markers and hands, plus a steel tachymetre bezel, which we reckon gives this watch a real industrial, tool watch feel. Two dial colour choices, blue or black, with white sub-second dials, 42mm case size, but don’t forget that beefy screwdown crown cover on top.

Priced at just over £1500, with a July discount code, the Ball features an adapted – OK tuned up – ETA 2836 movement that is COSC standard as regards timekeeping. Heavy duty buckle and steel bracelet is also part of the package.

Ball watch pathbreaker 1

The lume is provided by tritium tubes, with the 12 o’clock number getting special treatment so it really stands out in the dark. There are 15 tiny gas tubes on the dial, plus two extra yellow gas tubes for the 12 numeral. If this super bright luminous vibe is your thing then the Ball Pathbreaker, Rene Dreyfus edition offers proven Swiss reliability, with super tough build quality and well finished components too – the buckle clasp on the bracelet is like a Bailey Bridge section!

Verdict; you have to really want the tritium tube lume to pay the price premium for the Ball Pathbreaker. There are other ETA powered watches out there with COSC certification, for about £500 less, plus a swathe of chunky cased dive watches from Indie brands that compete well on rugged looks and decent depth rating, again for under £1000.

More info here. 

New on Kickstarter: Reverie Diver, Offers Miyota Power, 3 Dial Colour Options

The Reverie diver watch, from the Singapore based company, is on Kickstarter right now, with a cost of £270 shipped to the UK. Delivery is expected in December if the funding target is reached and it should make it, as the Reverie Diver was at 66% of target today with 21 days to go.

They also have a nice Meca-Quartz powered GT chronograph on the site and good to go now.

OK, here’s the tech spec on the Diver project from Reverie Watches website;

  • 316L Stainless Steel Case. Dimensions: 40mm diameter, 43mm lug-to-lug, 11mm thickness and 20mm lug-width. Brushed and high-polished surfaces for contrast. 120-click unidirectional rotating bezel also provided.
  • Miyota 9039 Movement. Premium Japanese automatic movement with a 42 hours power reserve, hacking seconds function and high frequency of 28,800 per hour. Expect a smooth sweeping seconds hand.
  • Movement Engraving. The Japanese ‘Seigaiha’ pattern (i.e. “blue sea and waves”) is engraved on the rotor as a tribute to the movement’s Japanese roots and the watch’s aquatic theme.
  • reverie diver watch automatic
  • Guilloché Dial with 3 Color Choices. Double-layer dial with our signature guilloché effect displays different color tones depending on lighting conditions. Choose from: (1) navy; (2) olive green; and (3) warm grey.
  • Super-LumiNova. 2 types of Super-LumiNova luminous material aid reading the time in the dark: BGW9 (blue) on the hands and C3 (green) on the hour markers and bezel marker. Super-LumiNova is the benchmark for the luxury watch industry.
  • Sapphire Crystal. Sapphire crystal with AR-coating minimises glare when telling the time. Sapphire is scratch-resistant as it is nearly as hard as diamond.
  • Screw-Down Crown & 20ATM Water Resistance. Water resistance up to a depth of 200m, The screw-down crown further improves water resistance.
  • Adjustable Tapered Bracelet. The brushed stainless steel bracelet includes: (1) a 6mm taper for comfort; (2) on-the-go adjustability allowing you to adjust the bracelet by up to 11mm quickly; and (3) easy removal design allowing you to swap out the bracelet for another strap without a tool.
  • Additional Rubber Strap. 20mm wide strap which tapers down to 18mm at the buckle. The strap will also have an easy removal design allowing you to change straps without a tool.
  • Limited Quantities. Limited edition with each watch’s number engraved on the case-back. Like all other Reverie collections, we do not reproduce any designs once sold out.
  • Watch Roll. Each watch comes with a leather travel roll which fits up to 4 watches.
  • Free Worldwide Shipping. Complimentary tracked shipping via DHL Express.
  • Warranty. 2 year international repair warranty provided.