Tag Archives: perret

Zelos Tourbillon Mirage Skeleton: Rare Earth Tech

Zelos have a strong fanbase online and it’s easy to see why; tough, beefy watches with quality components, fantastic dive ability too.

But not every watch has to be a dive model right? Dress watches, everyday chronographs, old school three hand mechanicals, they all have their place. Then there are tourbillons, arguably Breguet’s greatest leap of imagination and skill. Perhaps the greatest technical advance in watchmaking from the 1780s to the mass production line techniques and toolmaking strategy at Waltham in the 1860s.

Here’s the latest from Zelos and it’s kinda different. Expensive too, but when you check the spec you’ll understand that Zelos are raising their game to the Swiss level here.

The sequel to last year’s Mirage Tourbillon, the 8 days skeleton is a showcase of engineering and design. A custom skeletonised, twin barrel movement powers the Mirage 8 day. This movement is supplied by La Joux-Perret, a prestigious movement manufacturer located in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

OK so they merged titanium with another metal called zirconium which creates a unique case design. Sapphire crystal of course, both sides, with the movement from La Joux Perret skeletonised on the dial plate. It’s a twin barrel 8-day tourbillon and you have to say there are very few watches using the LJP movements, so it has a real exclusivity, as this type of watch engine is usually seen on an Arnold & Son, Angelus, Hublot or Armin Strom perhaps.

The turbine effect on both barrels adds a jet age era feel and the dial has that carbon-fibre racing car dashboard feel too. It isn’t a throwback tourbillon which has elements of mantel clocks and fancy poker style hands. There are a range of colours and each option is limited to 25 pieces.

Yes, you would hesitate before spending $4000 on a Zelos. You could lose $2000 of that value in a  few years, or it might just hold about 70% of its retail price. It would be safer to buy a Tudor Black Bay for £3300 or so and watch the value creep upwards. Yeah, it is a safer choice, also you’re running with the herd to an extent.

Bottom line; you love technology and rarity? Buy one because you can dare to be different. And afford it.

More here at the Zelos website.

Can Citizen Pull Off a Grand Seiko Move?

Maybe they can. Later in 2021 they will launch the new The Citizen. Yes, they went for that does-what-it-says-on-the-tin vibe with the name.

Featuring a new Cal 0200, produced by La Joux Perret, one of the many brands within the Citizen portfolio. It is going to be expensive, priced around six grand and features some hand-finished details that watch collectors will appreciate. A rippled sand effect dial, beautifully cut and polished steel bracelet links, plus an automatic rotor that is cut like a miniature geometry set.

The jewel and bridge work is outstanding, dare we say this is better finished than a Rolex? Well, it’s just an opinion – don’t cancel us.

Now if you don’t like the traditional sub-second dial design on the The Citizen then the Series 8 offer a very clean, modern take on the dress watch. Here’s the word from Citizen;

“We announce the release of three new mechanical models – 870, 830, and 831. These models feature our Caliber 0950 and Caliber 9051 movements equipped with magnetic resistance to ensure peak performance in today’s digital society.

Series 8 watches feature a contemporary case design with clean, straight lines and an uncluttered layout. The bold combination of simple styling and a matte hairline finish with a multitude of fine lines provides a modern, sporty look. Watch functions have a strong emphasis on practicality, utilizing the Cal. 0950 and Cal. 9051 mechanical movements newly developed in 2021. In addition to these new movements, the watches also have enhanced magnetic resistance essential for our modern digital society, providing protection against magnetic fields generated by smartphones, tablets, and other devices that can affect the accuracy of the watch. The movement is just 4.1 mm thick, resulting in a thinner case and an extremely comfortable fit. The figure 8 in the Series 8 name represents infinity (∞), expressing the infinite possibilities of CITIZEN’s craftsmanship.”

They are very keen to stress the anti-magnetic properties, which makes me wonder if my old Accurist keeps stopping because of the PC and smartphone nearby? Probably not, more likely it just has 50 years of dirt fragments inside it.

The price is much reasonable, at around $2000 for the black dial model, moving down to $1200 for the Cal 831 version There is a mother-of-pearl dial option which can only be described as 80s disco. More info here.