We think so because Explorer values have been heading up a decent pace of late, as demand for GMT II, new Oyster and Subs becomes a feeding frenzy. There is something to be said the classic Explorer, especially one like this, which we spotted on a watch auction site. It’s in Italy, which often sets off alarm bells, but the period box and booklet looks good, plus there is a certificate of verification with it.
Then there’s the general wear. It’s been used, with big scratches on the crystal and quite a bit on the bracelet. That’s a good thing, because fakes tend to be much more minty, and we love that bold, big orange GMT hand too. This watch stands out, even if it is just 39mm. Yes, the bezel is non-original and those hands could be replacements fitted sometime in the early 2000s perhaps. They look too clean somehow, not a trace of fading over 40 years of sunshine – which you do get in Milan, has to be said.
But taken all round, yeah, well worth considering as an investment. There are still 13 days left on this one and we are going to guess it makes £6100.
One of the big names in dive watches for many decades is Doxa. Their new Sub 200 C-GRAPH is well worth a look if you’re serious about venturing underwater and want a chronograph. At nearly three grand (US dollars) it’s expensive for a 200m dive watch. But it offers a very high build quality and over a century of history behind that Doxa name. Here’s the press info;
In the line-up of diver’s watches developed by DOXA, the SUB 200 C-GRAPH stands out as a mechanically wound chronograph, recognizable by its three counters. It comes equipped with an automatic Swiss movement that provides a power reserve of approximately 45 hours.The chronograph function includes a central chronograph hand that rotates once around the dial every 60 seconds, a 30-minute chronograph counter positioned at 3 o’clock, and a 12-hour chronograph counter positioned at 6 o’clock.
With a diameter of 45 mm, made of the highest quality 316L stainless steel, the SUB 200 C GRAPH comes with a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a unidirectional rotating bezel. Featuring a screw-down crown, the watch is water-resistant to 200 meters (about 650 feet). All dive-related markings have a Super-LumiNova® luminescent coating to ensure optimum readability in low-visibility conditions.
Starting 2020, the SUB 200 C-GRAPH will be available in 6 colors. It can be ordered either with the iconic ‘beads of rice’ stainless steel bracelet or a sporty rubber strap, with distinctive DOXA cues on both sides, to match the dial color. The folding clasp features the exclusive DOXA fish symbol and has a diving extension to accommodate the thickness of a wetsuit.
We love orange watches in a heatwave, because it just says sizzling BBQ, cold beers and lazy days at the beach. Which is pretty much how most of the UK is feeling right now.
We spotted two GMT models on the Bamford site, one is a blue/orange combo with echoes of Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, and the other a more flaming orange. Not brand new models, just different.
You can also customise the Bamford Myfair quartz models, so you can add an orange dial and orange stitched leather strap for £475. Bit pricey yes, but you’re building your own design and most watch brands don’t let you do much of that.
Swiss SW200 movements inside the GMT 44mm case, designed in London, sapphire crystal of course. The Bamford GMT is kinda expensive for a Sellita powered watch at £1100 and rivals include models like the Farer Titanium cased Leven model at £995, which offers an impressive 300m depth rating. Or you could choose an SW200 powered LIV GX-1 model, which is carbon black with some nice orange accents. A bargain at £474 plus import duties we reckon, although it is a sports watch, rather than an everyday dress watch like the Bamford GMT.
The Powermatic 80 hour auto movement is one of the biggest bargains in Swiss watchmaking. Most commonly found in the entry level Tissot or Hamilton watches at about £450 or so, this movement is being fitted to the latest, special edition, Certina DS PH500M dive watch. Consider this; many Rolex automatics can only manage 40 hours reserve, so the technology inside this sub-£1000 Swiss watch is impressive.
The orange dialled beauty, captures the spirit of 1968, when Certina made an orange dialled DS dive watch. This modern re-creation features a steel case, screwdown crown, 500m depth rating and a pair of straps, so you can do that Tri-athalon swim without any worries. One strap is extra long by the way. There’s a sapphire crystal too.
The watch retails at a reasonable £795 in the UK and offers excellent value compared to many other Swiss dive watches with a 500m depth rating. On the rear of the case you get the logo of the German Divers Association, as they had a hand in the development of this watch. There’s a uni-directional bezel so you cannot click-stop the wrong way – essential detail for diving we reckon.
It’s a 43mm case size so a very nice compromise between making a statement and being big enough to see the time at a glance. We love the 60s vibe this has, which is very reminiscent of Yema, Doxa or Favre Leuba models from those heady Austin Powers days.
For us, this makes a versatile everyday watch that nails the retro look very well, has the cachet of Swiss quality and an 80 hour reserve so you won’t spend much time winding this one to get some tension on the mainspring.