Tag Archives: movement

Undone Stellar: 60s Groove, Seiko VK Quality

Here’s the word from Undone, who have revived a style from the 60s, and are offering the models for a short two week sales period.
UNDONE is reinterpreting the highly collectible dials of the high-end vintage timepieces, which were extremely popular amongst the Middle Eastern elites during the 1960s and 70s.
Giving you the most sought-after color choices amongst watch collectors and enthusiasts alike; the watches come in a selection of Tiff Blue, purple, and yellow. It is a modern twist, inspired by the flamboyant colors of the 60s. The highly limited UNDONE Stellar collection will only be available for purchase within a two-week period, between June 24th and July 8th.
Each color is limited to 300 pieces and is uniquely serialized. In this collection, UNDONE is giving you all the characteristics of the highly sought-after watch style by Middle Eastern elites. The UNDONE Stellar pieces offer daring and exciting high gloss colors contrasted by the conservative tone of the 316L stainless steel case, with finishing touches including the metallic applied indices.
This collection oozes a sense of chromaticvibrancy. Bringing the dial to life is the liquid-like finish, a finish that gives you the feeling of paint that has never dried. To achieve this look, it undergoes successive rounds of sanding to get rid ofany unevenness (or the “orange peel” effect) in the enamel paint application.
Each watch in the UNDONE Stellar collection is finished with a “Khanjar” Emblem at 12o’clock. The unique design is influenced by timepieces from the 1960s, which were fitted with custom Middle Eastern dials. These rare timepieces were often presented as ceremonious gifts and were never available to the public.
In typical UNDONE fashion, each watch will come with a complementary colored Epsom grained leather strap that pairs perfectly with the vibrant colored dials, and a dark brown leather strap with a crimson printed “Khanjar” emblem for a change of look.
Technical Specs;
The 316L stainless steel case is 12.7mm thick with a hardened domed K1 crystal and a displaycaseback. With a case width of 40mm and a lug-to-lug of 47.6mm, it offers versatility to suit both mens and womens wrists. Water resistance is guaranteed at 3 ATM/30 meters. Inside the design is a Japanese TMI VK64 Mechanical-Quartz Hybrid Flyback Chronograph (supplied by SEIKO Manufacturing (H.K.)Limited), with a sweeping central chronograph seconds. The subdials show a 24-hour display and 60-minute counter. The strap is immediately comfortable and is fitted with quick release spring bars that conform to the trendy swappable design, allowing you to easily switch to your complimentary strap.
RRPPrice: USD349
(Limited to 300 pieces per color, worldwide)

Orient Star 70th Anniversary Edition

Orient is a sub-brand of mighty Seiko and sadly, they don’t seem to get the investment that the brand deserves, given its heritage. The latest Skeleton Star model, a tribute to the Star from 70s years ago is a case in point.

It actually looks like a Chinese clone, nothing like the original Star. Here’s the press info from Orient;

The new Skelton ( yep, they couldn’t even spell check skeleton) is featuring a new hand-wound movement with 70 hours of power reserve. The latest in-house 46-F8 series movements, feature longer power reserves of 70 hours, making them more practical than ever before.

The longer running time is achieved thanks to the new silicon escape wheel which is lighter and processed with higher accuracy. Beside, it has longer running time as well as a high accuracy of +15 to –5 seconds per day even with the ultimate skeletonisation.

The escape wheel visible through the watch’s skeleton structure uses Epson’s MEMS technology to control the film thickness at the nanometer level to adjust its light reflection, resulting in an eye-catching blue.

DUDE, DID YOU JUST SAY CROC LEATHER?

The vivid blue and a unique spiral shape evokes the Milky Way Galaxy, and the movement part at the nine o’clock position in the shape of a comet with two tails, symbolising the universe-inspired design theme. The model uses high-quality SUS316L stainless steel for the case, and comes with a hand-stitched, genuine crocodile leather strap.

Yes, they did say crocodile. In a woke era it is astonishing that Seiko-Orient think this won’t attract activists on social media keen to cancel their brand.

Classic Orient Star, with dial that changes from black to deep blue.

MISH MASH APPROACH

On the upside this 38mm watch has a sapphire crystal, front and back, but bafflingly it’s only got 50 metres of water resistance. So why not fit a Hardlex then?

70 hours of power is great but it’s hand-wound, mechanical, not auto. Again pointless. This mix of prestige features with some really dull aspects of the Star means it’s unlikely to attract many buyers. To be fair there are some better looking Star models in the range, including some with sub-sec dials that capture the early 50s spirit of the original. But this thing looks like a Thomas Earnshaw.

Sad times.

 

Zelos Tourbillon Mirage Skeleton: Rare Earth Tech

Zelos have a strong fanbase online and it’s easy to see why; tough, beefy watches with quality components, fantastic dive ability too.

But not every watch has to be a dive model right? Dress watches, everyday chronographs, old school three hand mechanicals, they all have their place. Then there are tourbillons, arguably Breguet’s greatest leap of imagination and skill. Perhaps the greatest technical advance in watchmaking from the 1780s to the mass production line techniques and toolmaking strategy at Waltham in the 1860s.

Here’s the latest from Zelos and it’s kinda different. Expensive too, but when you check the spec you’ll understand that Zelos are raising their game to the Swiss level here.

The sequel to last year’s Mirage Tourbillon, the 8 days skeleton is a showcase of engineering and design. A custom skeletonised, twin barrel movement powers the Mirage 8 day. This movement is supplied by La Joux-Perret, a prestigious movement manufacturer located in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

OK so they merged titanium with another metal called zirconium which creates a unique case design. Sapphire crystal of course, both sides, with the movement from La Joux Perret skeletonised on the dial plate. It’s a twin barrel 8-day tourbillon and you have to say there are very few watches using the LJP movements, so it has a real exclusivity, as this type of watch engine is usually seen on an Arnold & Son, Angelus, Hublot or Armin Strom perhaps.

The turbine effect on both barrels adds a jet age era feel and the dial has that carbon-fibre racing car dashboard feel too. It isn’t a throwback tourbillon which has elements of mantel clocks and fancy poker style hands. There are a range of colours and each option is limited to 25 pieces.

Yes, you would hesitate before spending $4000 on a Zelos. You could lose $2000 of that value in a  few years, or it might just hold about 70% of its retail price. It would be safer to buy a Tudor Black Bay for £3300 or so and watch the value creep upwards. Yeah, it is a safer choice, also you’re running with the herd to an extent.

Bottom line; you love technology and rarity? Buy one because you can dare to be different. And afford it.

More here at the Zelos website.

LIV GX Diver: Generation 2 On Kickstarter Now

LIV watches are big, bold and colourful – also pretty great value when you weigh up the spec. The GX dive model offers a chunky 44mm case diameter, Swiss movement, 300m depth rating and a ceramic bezel.

The latest Gen 2 model is on Kick right now, with prioces starting at $690 – though you need to add on VAT and UK import tax of course.

We reckon the Gamma Green and Cobalt Blue models will sell out fast, not so sure on the grey models. More details here at the LIV Kick page. 

Raven Trekker Bronze; Dive Ability & Vintage Looks

Raven watches has a new bronze case model on their website right now, which has an impressive spec; ETA 2824 movement, sapphire crystal and 300m of water resistance. It’s a great looker with the green dial option and sdistressed leather strap too – just saying.

At $1100 it isn’t cheap and it has to be said there are similar 300m spec bronze case watches for a little bit less on the Indie market. But this is a classic timepiece, which will definitely age well. Is that dial green remarkably similar to Bentley racing car green? Could well be and there is nothing wrong with that.

Here’s the tech spec;

39mm bronze case
300 meters WR
CuSn8 bronze
316L stainless case back
ETA 2824 decorated movement
Gloss deep green dial
Box sapphire crystal
AR coating
Blue Superluminova (BGW9)
Swiss rubber strap choices
bronze buckle
leather case
one year warranty
Limited to 30 watches
Price: $1100

20% Discount Code on Torgeon T18 Model

Torgeon have a handy 20% discount code on their website right now, which can be applied to the orange strap/dial versions of its 45mm T18 model.

Powered by a Swiss ETA quartz movement, it’s a striking, modern watch that is aimed at the younger consumer. And KTM owners.

Here’s the blurb from Torgeon;

Designed in partnership with Team Pelfrey Star Mazda racers, this watch brings flight speed to the race track.

Equipped with a wide range of functional tools for race car and aviation enthusiasts living in high speed, this watch includes a Swiss Made ETA G10.212 quartz chronograph movement. With large, clearly displayed orange digits that add a hint of colour, a blue carbon fibre dial, a blue silicone strap and a heavy duty stainless steel buckle, this is an elegant timepiece with a thrilling edge.

 

Eza Sealander: ETA Movt, 300m Depth & Bronze Case

Eza watches has sent us some info on their new Sealander Bronze model, which retails for just over £1100.
Obviously there’s a bronze 41mm case, with an ETA 2824 movement inside – these movements are becoming increasingly rare from Indie brands, so that is worth a price premium to an extent, as many now have Miyota/Seiko engines inside.
The watch is made in Germany, so when you buy for $1095 you have 20% VAT and UK imkport duties on top, plus any admin fees the delivery service can apply. We reckon it will total up at £1100 plus, but sadly nobody knows unless they buy it.
This ongoing problem with import duties and other fees needs to be fixed, otherwise watch sales are going to become difficult for Indie makers. Big brands can use Freeport warehouses to get around this mess, but smaller companies are trapped and can only push all the admin and costs onto the customer.
Great looking dive watch, 300m depth, and an ETA engine – it has a great deal of plus points. Long term, an Oris might hold its value better, but you will pay more than £1400 for an Oris with 300m rating.
Here’s the tech spec on the Sealander;
Movement
Swiss Calibre ETA 2824 Automatic, Ligne 11-1/2’”, 25 jewels, 28.800bph, 38-40 hour power reserve, adjusted by Eza Watches to six positions.
Functions
Automatic & manual winding, Display by means of hands: hour, minute, second. Date calendar, Stop second device, Shock-absorber for balance staff.
Case
CUAI9 bronze case with mixed brushed and high gloss finish. Case diameter 41.0mm, lug width 22.0mm, case thickness 14.2mm (including the double domed glass), lug to lug 49 mm.
High gloss 316L Stainless Steel Caseback with engraved logo.
Dial
Dial with high gloss indexes filled with C3 SuperLuminova™.
Ceramic bezel insert with C3 SuperLuminova™ at 12 o’clock.
Crystal
Double domed anti-reflective, scratch resistant sapphire crystal.
Water resistance
Water resistant to 30 ATM, 300 meters.
Strap
Vintage leather and nato strap.
Ratings
Adjusted to six positions and tested.

Boldr Odyssey: Valjoux 7750 Power At a Tempting Price

A Valjoux 7750 powered chronograph for just $1200? That is a deal!

Here’s the word from Boldr Watch Supply;

Built to accompany its wearer on the toughest regatta races, this is our first ever yachting chronograph watch, and like all Odysseys, it’s a beast on your wrist. Combining modern & classic elements meticulously designed for performance and durability, this stainless steel sailor features a 10-minute count back disk-dial and a flyback chronograph hand that resets immediately with a simple click.

At its heart lies an ETA Valjoux 7750 Chronograph Movement for seamless timekeeping while skimming the waves or exploring 500m under the surface. The dial is classic black & white with stylised boat-shaped skeleton hands to maintain the highest possible legibility. It also boasts a unique 2-in-1 bi-directional bezel function that pairs a 15-minute marker option with a specialized nautical miles tachymeter (Refer to watch manual for instructions.)

If you order today – 20th April – the price is $1199, rising to $1499 once the initial limited edition of 20 pieces has been snapped up.

Think about this for one minute, the Valjoux 7750 is still found in many a pre-owned Breitling, Sinn, Raymond Weil and more prestige brands, with asking prices of over $3000. So you’re getting the same engine, for much less money. Worth a look we say.

Baltic Twin Crown is a Win-Win

Baltic’s Aquascaphe twin crown is on pre-order right now and it’s a wel equipped tool watch that’s built to dive. With a serious 200m depth rating, sapphire crystal, 316 steel compressor case and dive time crown at the 2pm position, this model will do the job. The top crown moves the internal bezel, so you can set the minutes underwater accurately.

The second crown at 4 o’clock is used to wind the automatic movement and to set the time. The first 300 pieces are numbered on the caseback This watch is also slim, at just under 12mm in height from crystal to caseback. That might suit many watch fans who find the big chunky cases on say a Zelos, or some bronze indie watches just too much on dry land. 

You can also buy it with a black dial and black bezel, plus there’s a PVD coated case option.

The pre-order price is £660, which is reasonable for something this well finished and manufactured in Europe, rather than China or Singapore. There will be import duties and perhaps some BS delivery company admin fees on top don’t forget.

Rivals include much of the Zelos range, plus dive brands like Enosken (1000m depth) or Marloe, who are based in the UK.  There’s a great deal of choice when it comes to dive watches under £1000 these days, although twin crown models are not as common as single crown watches in general.

More at Baltic’s website here.