Torgoen has just sent us info on their new 38mm T100 GMT automatic model. First off, let’s mention the price which is just £217, plus import duty etc. but still impressive value for a Swiss movt powered watch with this fit n finish.
Love that chapter ring inside the dial, some cool colourways too; light grey, cream or a bold red. We like that crown protector detail as well.
Sapphire crystal and you have a 316 grade stainless steel case too. This could be the all-rounder watch you are looking for, makes a handy tool watch, or dress watch with that more compact size we reckon.
Who wouldn’t like Rolex Explorer Freccione GMT from the 80s? Classic lines, 40mm case size, fantastic tool watch. However, finding a good one can be expensive, like 20 grand plus expensive. Ouch.
So if you love the style then China based brand Pagani have that all boxed off for you. The 42mm PD 1693 model was launched earlier in 2021 and really captures all the 80s GMT vibe you could want. 200m water resistance, classic orange GMT hand, plus a choice of white or black dials and that 24 hour numbered bezel too.
Inside, there’s a DG auto movement, which is closely based on the Miyota auto found in so many Accurist, Citizen and Bulova watches even today. Sapphire crystal, 20mm lug width and a steel bracelet, or you can choose a silicone strap.
The Christopher Ward C63 GMT has a new green dial, green strap option added to the range and for us, it’s a winning combo.
The watch is powered by a Swiss Sellita SW330 movement, has plenty of lume, date window at 6pm and the famous GMT hand of course. Case diameter is 39mm, which makes this a nice size for everyday wear.
The price is £795, which for a watch that can offer see-thru sapphire crystal, 56 hours of power reserve and a stunning green `ombre’ style dial, is pretty fair. It’s assembled in the UK don’t forget, where wages are very high, so you pay extra to support jobs here, rather than in say China or Singapore. Your choice.
150m of water resistance isn’t impressive for some, but certainly enough for holiday snorkelling or swimming. There is a steel bracelet option, plus you can change to a silicone strap quite easily, using the quick-change mechanism.
The winning feature for us is that hand-distressed dial finish, which makes a refreshing change from so many white dial GMT watches.
Citizen has launched a new Promaster Navihawk AT model. That’s AT for Atomic Time, which is all the accuracy you’ll ever need frankly. At £599 that’s decent value for an ultra functional tool watch, with great looks too.
It also has that flight deck instrument dial vibe, which we love. Here’s the press blurb;
The newly re-launched Promaster Navihawk A-T men’s watch from Citizen is inspired by the elements a pilot experiences while in flight.
The grey ion plated stainless steel watch case and bracelet have the look of stormy clouds, while the dial is accented with bold highlights. It synchronises to the atomic clock for superior accuracy and allows for time adjustments in 26 cities.
Other features include 12/24-hour time, power reserve indicator, chronograph, sapphire crystal glass and water resistance to 200 metres. This is the ultimate watch for anyone who isn’t content to keep their feet on the ground and always wants to see what’s over the next horizon.
Additionally, the watch is sustainably powered by light with Citizen Eco-Drive technology. Whether you keep your feet on the ground or you yearn to soar in the clouds, this multifunctional watch is ready to take off whenever you are.
The GMT is a watch tradition that never goes out of fashion. Yes, most of us don’t travel that much now that Covid19 has provided climate zealots with the ammunition to shutdown overseas jaunts for the 80%, but still, a GMT looks good. Plus it helps you stay in sync with an overseas office if you work in say global IT, insurance, media production etc.
Now Bell+Ross have that aircraft heritage and that cockpit dial gauge style thing going on. All good. The screwdown bezel gives it a too, watch focus, a utilitarian feel. Ditto the integrated bracelet links, which add a sort of `hewn from metal’ vibe.
Then there’s the stark white-on-black numbers and markers. Functional for sure, but also punchy, eye-catching and sort of timeless. This won’t go out of fashion like some Swiss watches do – anyone still collecting Ebel chronographs with their huge pushers and rounded off cases? Nope, thought not.
At 41mm across, it’s the right size, it also looks pure tool-watch slick, stripped down and ready to travel. No fancy additions, not even a day to sit alongside the date window.
This is a pricey watch at £4100 on a textured strap, £4500 on a bracelet. For all its super-clean, brushed steel brilliance the Bell+Ross BR-5 range is Sellita powered, albeit decorated and upgarded by the B&R concern.
That is a heck of a price to pay for a Sellita powered watch, so our verdict is spend the £4500 on a different GMT, like a pre-owned Explorer maybe, or even a new Tudor Black Bay. You will hold the watch value better in the long run because B&R simply does not have the fanbase in the UK that big brands like Rolex, Tudor, Omega, Breitling et al has, or ever will have.
Like so many watches that dare to be genuinely different, B&R pay the price in the fickle collector market.
Yema has added their new in-house Cal 3000 to the Superman Heritage GMT model. The bronze cased watch is on offer at 1390 euros, although UK customers have to pay VAT on top of 20%.
Here’s the word from Yema;
The Maubydick Mission led by Hugues Vitry started in 2019 goes on with the release of the new Superman Heritage GMT Bronze. Equipped with our second-generation GMT In-house Caliber YEMA3000, this new model preserves most design aspects of its predecessor while proposing a degraded green dial chosen by Hugues Vitry and an elegant engraved GMT bronze bezel.
The watch is available in 39mm and 41mm case sizes and we love the brushed bronze effect on this one.
Torgoen has revived its T21 Flight GMT watch, which has a slide rule function. Not our thing, but if you love GMT watches then it’s worth a look.
RRP is £217 and there are cream, blue and black dial options.
The TorgoenT21 Flight GMT is a one-of-a-kind timepiece that incorporates a functional E6B analog flight computer. Developed by US naval pilots in the late 1930’s, the E6B is a circular slide rule used during flight planning to calculate fuel burn, wind correction, time en route and other stats.
Although modern aircrafts now use electronic systems to make these calculations, the E6B is still used in flight training to teach pilots how to manually compute these important factors.
Complete with GMT function, the T21 Flight GMT is the ultimate watch for pilots and aviation enthusiasts alike.
Ball has added a blue/green bezel option to its Roadmaster GMT model. Here’s the press info;
Engineered to the specifications of a 35-year Navy Mariner veteran, it’s the world’s first GMT timepiece with day and date functions, delivering utmost functionality.
The pioneering quick-set GMT push buttons revolutionize the way GMT hand is adjusted with its ease-of-use. The tough titanium material and COSC certified mechanical movement guarantee perfect performance in the most imperfect situations. Topping off with the darkness-conquering luminosity of the micro gas tube. The watch that once ran America’s railroads now empowers world explorers to live freely and fearlessly.
The stunning Blue & Green bezel version marks the latest addition to the signature Roadmaster Marine GMT ceramic series, a statement piece that fits for all occasions.
Limited to 1,000 pieces each. The Roadmaster Marine GMT Blue & Green bezel is now available for pre-order until 25 August 2021, at £2110.
Torgoen are well known for making stand out designs and the new Lazuli GMT is in that ballpark. Big numbers on the dial, vivid colours, decent price. It’s all you could want in a fashion quartz watch and you have the bonus of a mineral crystal, Swiss Ronda movement plus a good choice of Italian leather straps too.
At £146 it’s in the same price bracket as many Indie meca-quartz GMT watches, or some entry level Citizen, Seiko or Armani/Boss brands. Worth a look we think.
There is something addictive about designing your own one-off watch. That’s exactly how Bamford London feel as well, so you can buy their Sellita SW330 powered GMT watch with a variety of dial, bezel, hands options, plus a bit of engraving and lettering on the dial.
Sapphire crystal, 40mm steel case, so this will fit most wrists quite nicely.
We gave it a try and created two designs the 01 and 02 and we have to say, either model would be a welcome addition to the NWC watch drawer. Who doesn’t like the classic Pepsi Red/Blue bezel, or an orange or red GMT hand?
The cost is £1400, which is just slightly above the standard model £1250 retail. You don’t have any import duty of VAT to pay as Bamford is a UK based company, so that’s a bonus.