Tag Archives: glashutte

Metroland Is a State of Mind

The latest watch from Nomos Glashutte is the largest variant of the  Metro model. Here’s the press info;

Metro neomatik 41 Update is the name of the in-house built watch, which was just unveiled at Watches and Wonders, the industry trade fair in Geneva. The timepiece embodies 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking craft—and contemporary design.

The Metro series from NOMOS Glashütte represents wristwatches with an almost archetypal flair: Finely detailed dial, domed sapphire crystal glass, diamond knurling on the crown. The newest and now the largest Metro was a welcome challenge for Mark Braun, and one which called for him to “incorporate a special complication into the design.”

The designer—who also works for KPM Berlin, Thonet, and Lobmeyr, and as a professor in Saarbrücken—had already created 13 versions of this popular watch before the 14th version, the Update variant, marked the pinnacle of the Metro story.

The new ring date from NOMOS Glashütte made its debut in 2018 with the classic watch model Tangente. And yet with its double row of indexes for minute and hour markers, Metro seems to have been destined to feature this patented date display—the fine, delicately precise character of the watch is emphasized by the date, which is set around the dial.

To contrast the neon orange that frames the current date, the color of the indexes was reduced: “That way the watch is at once simple and sophisticated,” explains Mark Braun. The sporty effect of orange is archetypal and yet, in tandem with the gray accents, very modern. A dash of gold in the typography, barely perceivable let alone visible, adds a touch of refinement that is entirely in line with the overall aesthetic.

As Mark Braun puts it: “For me, Metro Update is quality in the form of a watch, and a masterpiece of understatement.”

Price is £3500 in the UK, case diameter 40.5mm, steel case and sapphire crystal.  It has a see-thru caseback and the decorated movement actually looks very good.

Verdict: This typical German watch is understated and functional, almost like a pocket watch case on the wrist. The only question mark long term is resale values, as Nomos is – and will probably always be – a niche brand for collectors.

Ltd Edition Nomos Automatics Offer Understated Elegance

There is something to be said for the classic, minimalist timekeeper. A watch that just has bold hands and markers, maybe a sub-second dial, and does the job. No fancy bezels, no chrono pushers. Just a 1960s gents watch, utilitarian and elegant at the same time. Versatile even. At the same time, enthusiasts want a watch that can last a lifetime, made to high standards with accuracy as the foundation stone. Nomos Glashutte are on the case, here’s the word from their press office;

Distinctively fine watches have been produced in Glashütte for 175 years—an anniversary the watchmaking company NOMOS Glashütte celebrated with the release of two special limited-edition models.

And now the third is here: Club by NOMOS Glashütte comes in three new colorways, each limited to 175 pieces. The three names: Club automatic onyx, Club automatic navy, Club automatic olive. This popular model with domed sapphire crystal glass is available in beautiful shades of green, blue, and black (galvanized).

Club Navy Automatic

Within these timepieces, the NOMOS movement DUW 5001 is at work—the first self-winding caliber from the watchmaking company, introduced in 2005. The diameter measures 40 millimeters. All three watches are also easily legible at night. NOMOS Glashütte has crafted these long-lasting timepieces with the next generation of watch owners in mind. People, in other words, who will need a good watch on the wrist for decades to come.

First, there was Ludwig – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte, which celebrated the town’s heritage as the center of German watchmaking. Then came Lambda – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte, which represented the very best of Glashütte handcraft. And now there is an entirely different watch: An automatic model with an in-house built caliber and the proprietary NOMOS swing system adjusted according to chronometer standards. Available for an entry-level price which many people will find attractive: “A group of customers that has always been of great importance to us,” says NOMOS CEO Uwe Ahrendt.

Each of these watches comes with its own beautiful accessory: The elegant and complementary strap—a light gray and blue-black textile strap for the olive green and navy models respectively, and the NOMOS Sport bracelet for the onyx version. These watches are available from March in select retailers and online in the NOMOS Store, starting from 1960 GBP.

NOMOS Tetra Symphony Hits a Few Duff Notes

The latest from NOMOS is called the Tetra Symphony series and we have mixed feelings.

Tetra Divine Spark is one of a quartet of mechanical timepieces for women—together, an ensemble known as the Symphony series. With these watches NOMOS Glashütte is celebrating the 250th anniversary of Beethoven’s birth.

This NOMOS model comes in four dial colours. The sandstone one is very easy on the eye, there’s a black dial for evening wear and  a pastel blue, plus a washed out grey.

None of them really shout glamour, but maybe that’s a good thing if you are wandering the streets of Europe and America’s divided cities. This isn’t a watch that anyone will mug you for, despite its £1300 retail price – who would buy it on the stolen market for more than a hundred quid? Instead it offers tool watch, mechanical precision in a square case, made from steel. Hard times demand hard watches? Perhaps, but we are willing to bet 500 quid that buying this watch for the lady in your life will not go down well. Unless she chose it of course.

Our advice to NOMOS is that if you want to celebrate Beethoven offer a vibrant, brightly coloured model that captures the Pastoral symphony, or a gold model called `Joy.’ Take a leaf from Olivia Burton or Coeur de Lion’s colour palette and shout out that joy from the rooftops in big, bright, primary colours. in fact get a partnership deal to produce branded Coeur de Lion Geo watches asap because that will pay off big time. Mechanical/auto movements, special editions, geometric designs with exclusive bracelets to match the cases. Get on it right now for next Christmas.

This Beethoven range is too German and although dour colours and minimalist steel touches may sell kitchen appliances, watches are supposed to be more akin to jewellery than worktops and fridges, aren’t they?

 

Nomos Glashutte Offers Ltd Edition Ludwigs For Christmas

Christmas is almost here again, and this year there are two special gifts from the watchmaking company NOMOS Glashütte. These two new versions of the classic Ludwig: one larger and highly elegant (Ludwig 38 enamel white at 38 millimeters in diameter), the other in a smaller size (Ludwig 33 duo enamel white at 33 millimeter in diameter).

Both watches feature Roman numerals, fine indexes, and railroad minute markers—also known in French as chemin de fer. A slender pocket watch-style case is the perfect finishing touch, since Ludwig by NOMOS is a timepiece for traditionalists. Just like the Glashütte watchmakers who began honing their craft in the small town in Saxony, eastern Germany 175 years ago.

These may be atypical design elements for NOMOS Glashütte, yet they serve to make these models all the more classic. To mark the anniversary, both timepieces come with glossy enamel-white dials reminiscent of early pocket watches. Thanks to modern technology they are robust and made to last, and as such they are especially beautiful. The hands are tempered blue.

Both models are powered by Alpha—the caliber that ticks in more watches from NOMOS Glashütte than any other. Three-quarter plate, tempered blue screws, and Glashütte ribbing are all beautifully on show through the sapphire crystal glass. The smaller, women’s version is a two-hand model and therefore belongs to the “duo” series, since it tells time in minutes and hours only.

To make these watches an even more attractive gift for someone special, NOMOS Glashütte has considered their prices carefully: The exquisite enamel-white dial, itself a tribute to the 175th anniversary of Glashütte watchmaking, can be thought of as a Christmas gift from the company—and so the smaller version, Ludwig duo, is available from 1,060 GBP; the larger version from 1,580 GBP.

Nomos Glashutte: Confession of A Watch Polisher

Nomos Glashutte have sent us some info on polishing watches. Yes, we know it’s a bit geeky, but watchmaking is all about the details. If you love the technology, knock yourselves out;

The surfaces should be as smooth as glass—and creating this perfect finish for the hand-wound caliber DUW 1001 can take the expert watchmakers at NOMOS Glashütte hours. They work with high concentration, since a single speck of dust could leave behind a scratch. Smooth surfaces are more resistant to oxidation. In the past, this was essential—but now it’s simply beautiful.

During bevelling, as one of these polishing techniques is known, an angle of exactly 45 degrees is cut by hand between the surface and side of one of the movement parts, before being smoothed out with a tool crafted from hardened steel and polished to perfection with wood. This process is known as burnishing.

In order to polish the six tiny gold chatons in the movement, they are carefully pressed into soft elder pith. This holds them in place without exerting too much pressure. Then they are polished with very fine sanding paper—with a grain of one to five thousandth of a millimeter. Individual components—such as the regulator, click, ratchet spring, and swan neck spring—are smoothed out with a tin polish, also known as black polishing in the watchmaking world. The component is worked on a tin plate with a grinding paste, which is gradually ground down. The goal is to bring the surface to a high-gloss shine that reflects light completely. That is what makes the surface appear deep black to the eye.

The writing on the balance cock is not polished, but instead engraved by hand: It reads “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt” (lovingly produced in Glashütte). This beautiful component can be seen through the sapphire crystal glass back. But there are many details that remain hidden where only a watchmaker can see.

These are what make the DUW 1001 caliber and the NOMOS model Lambda it powers truly special. Lambda – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte is the first version of this model in stainless steel. Until now, it has only been available in gold. The watch is regulated according to chronometer standards and comes in enamel white, blue, and black—limited to just 175 pieces each. This limited edition is with select retailers now.

New Watches: NOMOS Glashutte Lambda Trio

The latest press info from NOMOS Glashutte;

A new stainless steel case, a new size, new dials in enamel white, black, and blue, and regulated according to chronometer standards: In short, that’s what makes these three new timepieces celebrating 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking special. Each colorway is limited to 175 pieces, and each individual watch is crafted using the traditional techniques of this historic town.

The enamel gloss of the dials offers an unusual optical depth; an effect enhanced by the curve of the dial and sapphire crystal glass. The highly-polished steel, rarely found in fine watchmaking, makes these watches suitable for everyday wear. The name Lambda stands for “intrinsic values” in mathematics—in other words, for a value that remains constant. For those who like a clean, 50s Modernist sort of design, NOMOS have got this one spot-on, with a kind of geometry exam paper vibe.

Lambda features a complication: the power reserve indicator. It sweeps an arc across the dial and tracks 84 hours, or three-and-a-half days, accurate to the hour. The four needle-thin hands give this watch model a graceful elegance—with fine features reminiscent of a kinetic sculpture.

The polished case of the watch frames the dial with a slender bezel, while the transition from the side to the back of the case is a radiodrome; that is, a curve with a shrinking radius. The lugs reflect the curved form of the case as well.

The mechanical movement is also something special. Lambda is powered by DUW 1001, and is the first caliber to bear the title “Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte.” A large, slender caliber with twin mainspring barrels, 29 jewels within ensure flawless functioning—with six of them in hand-polished screwed chatons, reflecting traditional watchmaking. All edges are also polished by hand, with black polishing on individual steel parts.

The fine sunburst polishing on the three-quarter plate is eye-catchingly beautiful: a polish that is only found in NOMOS timepieces, and has become a part of traditional Glashütte watchmaking since Lambda. By contrast, the regulatory system of screw balance and swan neck fine adjustment in this model has its roots in history. The spring of the swan neck fine adjustment is positioned on top of the balance cock. This reads “Lovingly produced in Glashütte” in German—a message hand-engraved by a highly skilled watchmaker. And another example of the town’s rich heritage.

Nomos Ludwig Limited Edition – Roman Numeral Date Feature

The perfect timepiece to mark 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte: the NOMOS classic Ludwig, a self-winding model, with neomatik date caliber—presented in a limited edition.

For the first time Nomos is making a watch with a date display in Roman numerals and we think that’s a winner – it is great to be different. This is a super-slim watch has an auto movement that is just 3.6mm thick. That means the watch is 7.7mm thick and has a 41mm case size. The blue-tempered leaf hands and railroad track motif around the chapter ring add classic design cues that make this an excellent dress watch.

The top of the range costs over £3300, but there is an entry-level Ludwig Limited Edition at £1800. What do you lose out on? No date and it’s a hand-winding mechanical, not an auto – arguably not as collectable in the long run.

We love any watch brand that makes movements in-house and Nomos also claim that 95% of components are sourced locally, which cuts down on the environment footprint too. More info here. 

New Watches: NOMOS Tetra Fidelio Symphony Edition

Latest blue dial watch from NOMOS Glashutte;

Dyers used to work with plant extracts to create the color blue. After the dye bath the fabrics had to be left in the sun to dry: allowing time for the dyers to relax. Whether or not the term “blue Monday” finds its roots in the textile industry of yesteryear is up for debate.

It is, however, of no interest to this watch, since it loves the office as much as the weekend, and just gets on with doing its job—whatever day it is. Producing and adjusting the indefatigable in-house built movement requires considerably more time than it takes to dye fabrics blue.

This special edition watch from Glashütte features a dial in sumptuous dark blue, with golden numerals, and the hands and case in stainless steel. This elegant tricolor combination pairs perfectly with jewelry: gold and silver work particularly well. As does the name of this watch: “Fidelio.”

nomos alpha calibre

The watch features the Alpha in-house movement, which is super slim at just 2.6mm in height. The Tetra Fidelio is just 30mm across in case size, making this a traditional dress watch for those who love a square design.

This new Glashutte model is available now at select retailers for £1660.