Longines has launched a matt green dial variant of its Spirit model. The 42mm case auto has raised numbers, which seem to float above the dial from some angles. It’s aslo COSC certified.
Retail is £2050 in the UK, our advice is save another 600 quid up and invest in a Tudor instead. The Longines will lose you a grand in one year of ownership, plus this is a very plain jane looker for two grand, which resembles an Orient three star from a distance.
We have seen lots of green dial watches from TAG, Rolex, IWC, Breitling, Oris and more over the last year. Baume and Mercier has joined the party, with their green dial Riviera model, for men and ladies. Very trick strap change tech on the lugs too.
Yes, it does look a bit like an AP Royal Oak from a distance too – quite handy. Love the 42mm case size too. Here’s the press info;
Originally created in 1973, the Riviera watch has been given a new lease on life this year. It is going green this summer to express the energy, joie de vivre, and natural environment of its homeland: the elegant coasts of the Mediterranean.
The watch is strongly symbolic of Baume & Mercier, and retains the distinctive dodecagonal bezel and streamlined steel case that have brought it such renown. Following on from the new pieces presented during Watches & Wonders 2021, the Riviera is now adorned with a very summery and radiant green: irresistible.
This Brand icon is also wonderfully versatile with a new interchangeability system and an assortment of colored bracelets.
It was first created in Saint-Tropez in the 1970s and still conveys that wild decade’s values of happiness and carefree living. (many of us were on a three day week, using outside toilets, suffering regular power cuts, plus hyper inflation of 26% – Ed)
Summer in green
After the new collection was presented at Watches & Wonders 2021, Baume & Mercier expressed an ever more impactful style in connection with its rich history. A clever combination of “seventies-style” avant-garde design and the sporty classicism of contemporary watchmaking, the Riviera is going green for an exciting comeback. The color of these two incredibly characterful watches is synonymous with hope and a love of nature.
The first green creation is the 36 mm diameter model, aimed at women from all walks of life as well as men looking for a sporty and understated watch.
In steel, this Riviera – water-resistant to 50 meters as for all models of this size – features a light green dial with a refined sun-satin finish and is decorated with delicate stylized waves. This watch is unrivaled in its elegance, and powered by a new generation “Swiss made” quartz movement that provides 10 years of autonomy.
More masculine in size, the second Riviera has a dark green dial and is decorated with an exclusive nautical motif. It comes in an automatic “Swiss made” version in satin-finished and polished steel and measures 42 mm in diameter. It goes without saying that it also features the celebrated dodecagonal bezel. The radiant satin sunray dial is decorated in green, which accentuates its cool and contemporary design and offers water-resistance to 100 meters.
STRAP CHANGEOVER SYSTEM IS COOL
Asserting its design expertise once more, Baume & Mercier has paid special attention to how the bracelet (steel or rubber) fits onto the case for all the pieces in the Riviera collection that was unveiled this year.
The system has been thoughtfully designed by Baume & Mercier watchmakers to provide the Riviera with beautifully balanced proportions as well as increased comfort for its wearer. With their summery style, the two new pieces are decorated in interchangeable green grained and satin rubber straps, and are fitted with a triple folding security clasp.
See the video here;
They also feature the ingenious Fast Strap interchangeability system developed by Baume & Mercier, so the flexible or steel bracelet can be changed in just a few seconds. With this brand-new Fast Strap system, the bracelets can simply be clipped into the center of the lug. There is no requirement for specific tools or force.
Simple and straightforward. The rubber strap is available in various colors (black, blue, green, azure blue, white and mauve) so you can match the Riviera to your mood. Changing the bracelet on a watch transforms its appearance. The Riviera is naturally versatile, and knows how to do this to its best advantage.
We can’t see this one on the company website so we will take a guess and say it retails at £2250. Ish.
Yes we missed the press info on the TAG Monaco Ltd Edition with a titanium case. It is kinda cool, so here is the catch up;
TAG Heuer delights its racing fans and lovers of fine watchmaking with a new and limited-edition collectable, the TAG Heuer Monaco Titan Special Edition – an instant classic inspired by the collection’s origins in motorsports, this time in an unexpected and striking material, titanium. Expressing the timeless elegance of the TAG Heuer Monaco, this exclusive chronograph limited to 500 pieces is also infused with bold modernity.
This new TAG Heuer Monaco Titan Special Edition features a vivid and gleaming silver-coloured dial which perfectly complements the titanium case. A rare edition in the TAG Heuer Monaco collection, the light dial offers the benefit of very good visibility and an attractive contrast to the sub-dials, indexes and hands of the watch.
This special-edition TAG Heuer Monaco Titan is equipped with a modern version of the famous Calibre 11 automatic chronograph movement which celebrated its debut in the original 1969 Monaco.
Verdict: Nope, the Gulf model is still the Boss. Closely foloowed by tyhe blue dial variants.
Green dials are everywhere this year across the luxury watch market, from TAG to Rolex, Turdor to Longines.
The Spirit range now has a green dial version available, with prices starting at just under two grand for the leather strap version. That is a hefty price tag for a Longines, a brand which tends to lag behind Omega when it comes to PX/resale time.
Inside you get the L888.4 COSC level movement, which is based on the ETA A31 engine, which in turn can trace its roots back to the ETA 2892. There is a lot to be said for upgrading existing tech, especially when it comes to reliable, easy-to-service movements. But should a 2K watch have something new, built from the ground up?
You get big numbers on this watch which is great for those who want a traditional timekeeper. It also has a big winding crown and that suits some users with big hands. It only has 10ATM depth rating, even with a screw down crown which is pretty cautious of Longines.
There’s a sapphire crystal too, plus a screw on caseback, so it should actually be OK to swim while wearing this watch, but don’t take our advice.
At 42mm wide, this watch hits the sweet spot for many collectors. It’s just that for that price you could buy something really collectable, like say a pre-owned Tudor Black Bay. We think a Black Bay will hold its value long term – this green Longines? Hmm, maybe not.
One of our fave watch designs of all time, the original El Primero gets a revamp from the modern day Zenith factory; here’s the press release on the A3817 Revival model.
It has a real bold, primary colour punch from the dial compared to some other El Primero variants in the Zenith range. We like that classic chrono pusher look as well. Definitely a cheaper optuion than tracking down an original with paperwork, this one should retail at about £5900 in the UK.
When the El Primero calibre made its groundbreaking debut in 1969, Zenith chose to house it in two broad but distinct watch categories. On one hand, there were sportier models in tonneau-shaped steel cases, such as the A384, and on the other, more classical round cases in steel or gold, most notably the A386.
Released in 1971, the A3817 was the exception to the rule. It combined the sportier steel tonneau-shaped case of the earliest steel El Primero references with the striking tri-colour dial of the A386, resulting in a unique and appealing aesthetic that continues to resonate with vintage chronograph enthusiasts. Given that only 1000 of the A3817 were ever produced, it remains one of the most distinguished, elusive and sought-after references among the early El Primero watches.
The Chronomaster Revival A3817 is crafted in the same angled tonneau-shaped case with pump-style pushers as the original, using historical blueprints and reverse-engineering to preserve the original proportions and finishes.
Zenith waited two years after the launch of the El Primero in 1969 before introducing the iconic tri-colour dial to its sportier tonneau case, albeit with a slightly different execution in both function and aesthetic when compared to the A386.
Like its progenitor of 1971, the Chronomaster Revival A3817 features a white lacquered dial with chronograph counters done in the instantly recognizable tones of grey and blue, with the running seconds counter at 9 o’clock done with blue markers, indicated by the single blue hand on the dial.
The outer tachymeter scale also serves as a pulsometer, an especially handy and precise function provided by the high-frequency 5Hz (36’000 VpH) escapement of the El Primero movement. The seconds track is done in a pyramid pattern affectionately nicknamed the “shark tooth” scale, which enhances legibility with a distinctly retro touch.
TAG has released a teal green dial edition of the Carrera chronograph because, well…it’s just a 2021 trend and all that. Green is the new blue when it comes to dials. It retails at 6300 euros, or around £5420.
Here’s the word from TAG H press office;
Just in time for summer, the Swiss luxury watchmaker unveils the TAG Heuer Carrera Green Special Edition, an exceptional timepiece in a brand new colour: a deep blue-green with an intense shimmer. Limited to 500 pieces, this watch artfully combines the tradition inherited from the first Heuer Carrera models with modern elegance, brought together by an incomparable Riviera style.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Green Special Edition chronograph has in fact plenty in common with the Heuer Carrera ref. 2447. The signature lugs, stylish case, polished push buttons and dial all chime pleasingly with its illustrious predecessor, but the details and broader diameter – enlarged from 36 to 39 mm – bring it right up to date.
The dial boasts a sober, sophisticated tricompax structure with three snailed subdials: a minute chronograph at 3 o’clock, hour chronograph at 9 o’clock and permanent second indicator at 6 o’clock. The hour and minute hands are faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova® for optimum readability. Behind the retro-style “glass box” domed sapphire crystal, also inspired by the original Heuer Carrera, the dial sports the emblematic Heuer logo and Carrera name.
And last but not least, the new feature that makes this watch stand out from the crowd: the dial’s stunning teal sunray-brushed colour.
Rarely featured in TAG Heuer collections, this colour is a subtle
blend of blue and green, giving this timepiece a fresh, creative flair and sophisticated boldness. On the caseback, there are touches of teal on the movement’s column wheel and in the “Calibre Heuer 02” and “Swiss Made” inscriptions on the oscillating mass, visible through the transparent case.
There are just 500 examples of this special edition, 39mm watch being made, all sold direct online or via TAG boutiques.
Blanchard watches in Florida are doing the retro motorsport thing in style. They’re making chronographs for guys who race, and they don’t care if it sounds sexist and upsets the professional grievance hunters that lurk under every troll bridge on Twitter. Good for them we say.
The Seiko VK64 powered watch has three different dial designs, with the white dial, black sub-dials being our fave, plus four bezels. You get a little Allen key to undo the three tiny nuts that hold the bezel in place. There are two race circuit themed bezels as well, plus you get a springbar and spare straps in case you fancy a NATO option. 100m of water resistance, steel case, wonderful blue superlume dial at night.
This has a lot going for it and considering Robert Blanchard decided to start making watches in 2019, the company are offering a classy, old school motorsport chrono for not a great deal of money. A fast start is crucial, as they say in racing circles. Plus, they say they have more models and custom variations in the pipeline. Here’s the word from Blanchard;
The Gentleman Racer, gives you the ability to interchange bezels. Currently we are offering four designs with more to come in the future. The Gentleman Racer comes with your choice of three dial colors, and the options of a custom nylon NATO signed strap or a beautifully crafted tapering stainless steel bracelet with signed clasp. This premium chronograph was designed for race car drivers and spectators like yourself.
The project is already well funded by the way, delivery expected in June 21, price is about £213, plus import duty and VAT etc.
Those – like us at NWC magazine – who have said the Oyster Perpetual Datejust was something of a Honda Jazz, in that it didn’t really change its style in 20 years, have to pipe down as new dial options appear for 2021. Including a palm, or rainforest green effect. It’s great to embrace something new, but we wonder if this palm frond dial will stand the test of time. Perhaps a more conventional Datejust will prove to be a watch for all seasons.
Here’s the word from Rolex;
Rolex is introducing four new versions of its Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 featuring new ‘palm’ and ‘fluted’ dial motifs. The palm motif evokes lush, vibrant tropical forests, while the fluted motif showcases the pattern found on a range of Rolex bezels that has become one of the brand’s signature aesthetic styles.
The palm motif can be seen on three of the new watches. On the first, in Oystersteel and equipped with an Oyster bracelet, the pattern is present on an olive green dial. It also decorates the golden dial of the second watch, a yellow Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold) fitted with an Oyster bracelet, and the silver dial of the third watch, an Everose Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold) on a Jubilee bracelet.
The fluted motif is found on the golden dial of the final watch – another yellow Rolesor version – this time with a Jubilee bracelet. The new versions of the Datejust 36 are equipped with calibre 3235, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.
Rolex’s Datejust is the archetype of the classic watch thanks to functions and aesthetics that never go out of fashion. Launched in 1945, it was the first self-winding waterproof chronometer wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o’clock on the dial, and consolidated all the major innovations that the brand had contributed to the modern wristwatch until then. The Datejust has spanned eras while retaining the enduring aesthetic characteristics that make it so instantly recognizable.
HOW ABOUT THE MOVEMENT?
The new versions of the Datejust 36 are equipped with calibre 3235, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2015 and has been fitted on this model since 2018. At the forefront of watchmaking technology, this self-winding mechanical movement led to the filing of several patents, and offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability.
Calibre 3235 incorporates the Chronergy escapement patented by Rolex, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also insensitive to magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The blue Parachrom hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed and -patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance.
Calibre 3235 is equipped with a selfwinding module via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 3235 extends to approximately 70 hours.
The latest Explorer II made its debut yesterday and we have to say the white dial and vivid orange GMT hand are classic touches that didn’t need to be changed. The new movement is a welcome upgrade, so you now have a 70 hour power reserve, plus the dial features new super-bright lume on the markers and hands. The case size is 42mm too, which will suit many buyers as it looks like a proper watch, not a 36mm vintage model.
It’s arguably a better investment than the Explorer with two tone case because it won’t date so quickly and the lack of gold links in the bracelet makes it slightly less attractive to thieves. Wearing a dress Rolex openly in public is becoming pretty dangerous in many UK cities, even in daytime, so owning something that looks more akin to a Seiko 5 or a Maurice Lacroix Aikon is a wise precaution.
Here’s the press info from Rolex;
Rolex is introducing its new-generation Oyster Perpetual Explorer II. This technical watch, in Oystersteel, was created for the boldest explorers and now features a redesigned case and bracelet. This update brings enhanced visual balance and harmony to the timepiece while remaining true to its aesthetic heritage.
On the white lacquer dial, the hour markers – whose black coating is applied using PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) – and the black lacquer hour, minute and seconds hands stand out for their matt finish. The 24-hour hand retains its characteristic orange hue, which is the same colour as the Explorer II inscription that has featured on the dial since 2011.
The new-generation Explorer II also benefits from an optimized Chromalight display. In dark conditions, the intensity of the blue glow emitted by the hour markers and hands now lasts longer thanks to the innovative and exclusive luminescent material with which they are filled or coated. In daylight, these display elements also have a brighter white hue.
The new-generation Explorer II is equipped with calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.
The Explorer II is heir to the privileged relationship that has long united Rolex and exploration. Presented in 1971, this robust and reliable watch quickly became an essential tool for explorers travelling to the far corners of the globe, often in extreme conditions. Thanks to its 24-hour display comprising an additional, orange hour hand and an engraved bezel, the Explorer II allows the wearer to clearly distinguish daytime from night-time hours. This is particularly useful in areas where it is difficult or even impossible to distinguish between day and night, such as underground or in polar regions, which experience six months of daylight and six months of darkness a year. In certain conditions, this display enables the watch to serve as compass. The 24-hour display can also be used to show a second time zone.
The new-generation Explorer II is equipped with calibre 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2018 and is fitted on this model from 2021. At the forefront of watchmaking technology, this self-winding mechanical movement led to the filing of several patents, and offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability.
Calibre 3285 incorporates the Chronergy escapement patented by Rolex, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also insensitive to magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The blue Parachrom hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed and -patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance.
Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 3285 extends to approximately 70 hours.
The new-generation Explorer II is fitted with an Oyster bracelet. Developed at the end of the 1930s, this three-piece link bracelet is known for its robustness.
The Oyster bracelet on this new watch features the Rolex-designed and -patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It is also equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand, which allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. In addition, a concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case.
Hamilton’s Ventura watch was cool enough for Elvis, so do we need to say more? Yes. There’s a skeleton version of the famed triangular case watch now available from the Swatch Group. Hamilton also has a long heritage in electronic watches, so this latest version of the Ventura has a little electric pulse going on too. Here’s the press info;
Go bold and bright with a red electric pulse that lights up the center of a black PVD-coated case and skeleton dial; or, choose to shine a little brighter with a rose gold PVD-coated case, black skeleton dial and matching rose gold electric pulse. A black rubber strap finishes off both models, ensuring a comfortable and secure fit all day – and all night – long.
Available in two impressive versions, the Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton’s precisely cutout dial offers a striking view of finely engineered movement mechanics. With its Côtes de Geneve decoration clearly visible, our H-10-S movement with an extended 80-hour power reserve beats tirelessly beneath its skeleton dial.
It’s (still) electric
An automatic movement might power the Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton, but a stylized pulse of electricity zig-zagging across its open structure is a dramatic reference and tribute to the Ventura’s origins. The Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton is an ultra-modern tribute to the world’s first electric watch. A piece of history, a story of invention and a futuristic legacy, it’s an unforgettable representation of those who influence the world by daring to be different.
It retails for 1795 Swiss Francs, which is approximately £1620, we spottted on the CW Sellors website.