Deep Blue has launched its Alpha Marine 500 T100 model which has a Sellita SW200 movement, tritium lume and a steel bracelet. This is a big watch, with a 45mm case and the dial has a full luminous display at night too. Definitely a statement watch, this one retails at $839.
The hands are trium lumed orange by the way, which is a great contrast to blue dials we reckon.
Expensive compared to other Sellita SW200 powered watches, although the T100 has a depth resistance of 500m. Yep five hundred metres – that really is deep.
Baltic’s Aquascaphe twin crown is on pre-order right now and it’s a wel equipped tool watch that’s built to dive. With a serious 200m depth rating, sapphire crystal, 316 steel compressor case and dive time crown at the 2pm position, this model will do the job. The top crown moves the internal bezel, so you can set the minutes underwater accurately.
The second crown at 4 o’clock is used to wind the automatic movement and to set the time. The first 300 pieces are numbered on the caseback This watch is also slim, at just under 12mm in height from crystal to caseback. That might suit many watch fans who find the big chunky cases on say a Zelos, or some bronze indie watches just too much on dry land.
You can also buy it with a black dial and black bezel, plus there’s a PVD coated case option.
The pre-order price is £660, which is reasonable for something this well finished and manufactured in Europe, rather than China or Singapore. There will be import duties and perhaps some BS delivery company admin fees on top don’t forget.
Rivals include much of the Zelos range, plus dive brands like Enosken (1000m depth) or Marloe, who are based in the UK. There’s a great deal of choice when it comes to dive watches under £1000 these days, although twin crown models are not as common as single crown watches in general.
Bremont have just opened a new factory in the UK and you have to say hats off to them, because most brands would have simply designed their watches here in Britain, and had production outsourced to Singapore, possibly Switzerland on the more expensive models. But no, British-made watches (yeah Swiss movements we know, but give them a chance) and what’s more, the new Supermarine chronograph is probably going to be a hot seller, even at £5400 or so.
Let’s start with the dial which is a classic three sub-dial, reversed white on black affair. It’s punchy, tool watch functional, a classic mix of GMT and lumed hands. Set inside the 43mm case is a Bremont BE54 movement, with a stunning rotor that’s embossed with the Bremont name and a series of paddle shaped cut-outs. Little SBS/Commando detail that we love. The BE54 is based on the reliable Valjoux 7750 so you won’t have much trouble getting this serviced by an independent watchmaker when you need to – handy.
The bezel is ceramic, bi-directional and its rated at 200m so you can scuba dive on holiday – if you’re allowed abroad of course. I love the pushers and crown details on this model, they remind me of Thunderbird 3 and yeah, I think that’s a good thing.
The blue dial version looks pretty spectacular as well, and you can choose silicone strap or steel bracelet. The see-thru caseback is sapphire of course, and shows off that modified 7750 movement plus the Bremont rotor perfectly. This watch will delight the eye for decades and you have to admit, the same could not be said about some previous Bremont efforts.
This brand is turning things around now and if they can add a calculator on import duties in key markets to their online checkout then they have got it made. That’s a tall order I know, but you have to admit that the EU is making life hard for the UK and will continue to do so because…well mafia innit?
So if customers in China, Aus, USA, EU and Japan can all see exactly what the total cost of the watch is, then I think they may be tempted. This is a worthy rival to a TAG Autavia Heritage, an Omega Planet Ocean or Breitling Chronomat and although it is uinlikely to hold its resale value quite so well as those three watches, it’s definitely a watch you could pass down the family 30 years on – it has all the right elements, tough spec and plenty of visual appeal. Good work Bremont.
Boldr are bringing back the Odyssey 45, which as the number suggests is a hefty dive watch with a 45mm case.
The previous release of the Odyssey 40 was met with cheers from those who prefer a leaner fit, says Boldr, but there were no shortage of enquiries on the return of the chunky big dive watches. Locked & loaded for a deep sea adventure, the Odyssey 45 is the first BOLDR watch to feature a sapphire bezel surrounding a sector dial design, clearly marked and powerfully lumed with Superluminova.
It has a 500m depth rating, we love the bright, two-tone dial options and the first ten pieces sold have a useful $150 off the list price. Each fully stainless steel piece will also be marked with an individual serial number from 001/200 to 200/200. There is a very handsome two-tone green model in the line-up, plus Pacific Blue, Silver and a meteorite dial finish too. Inside there is a Japanese auto movement.
Very good dive spec for a UK price of £549 – plus any import taxes the government can think of. More info here.
This Kickstarter project caught our eye for two reasons, first it is a bronze watch that is ultra thin. This is great because quite a few bronze watches look like an old school Jules Verne diver’s helmet. Secondly, you can specify ETA or Miyota movement inside, which is always good for those who want that Swiss vibe. It can boost resale value too, let’s be honest.
The Miyota models start at just $489 on the early bird deal, with delivery expected around June 2021. The ETA models start at about $1000 and you get a premium, handmade-in-Japan, leather strap and box with it as part of the deal.
But the real value of this watch is in the details. Things like the superlume on the markers and hands, the polished caseback and Harrison H1 chronometer etched-on logo, ceramic bezel and much more. The wave effect on the dial for example, just catches the eye and makes you want to glance at the watch again. This watch is 42mm across and just 13.4mm high. That is super slender, like Instagram pout model skinny.
Bear in mind the H1 model has a depth rating of 500m, yes that’s over 1600 feet deep, so this has to withstand a lot of pressure. In short Zeitgeist have created something very premium, impressive build quality, with a dive functionality that matches some Blancpain models, at a Hamilton or Tissot price. That is a powerful set of reasons to consider this watch and it is no surprise that the Kick project has been over-subscribed already, with £22,000 pledged.
Zelos are one of our fave indie brands, simply because they make tough, decent spec dive watches at a reasonable price. Amazing selection of dial colours too. Well, they’ve been busy during lockdown creating the Horizons range and it looks like they’ve nailed it.
39mm case sizes, lots of Superluminova, sapphire crystals and a 200m depth rating make these watches versatile all-rounders. There is a quick adjust steel bracelet, an impessive range of fume and different coloured dials, plus the ever dependable Miyota 9039 movement inside the case.
The 39mm case size is a good compromise between visual impact on the wrist, or in the water, and the practical aspect of wearing it all day. Some bigger dive watches need a big wrist frankly, so anything over say 42mm isn’t a watch that suits everyone. Zelos models, especially the recent bronze case editions, have sold out quickly online. So if you like the look of the Horizons range, best act sharpish.
Wear `em every day, go swimming on holiday, stay indoors until next May wearing a mask and shopping online…OK, sorry, we know it’s depressing being part of the New World Order.
Seriously, these are good value at $449 or therabouts on the website. The teal fume is a standout model for us, plus the brass detailed dial on the Moss Green model. Retro meets modern. More info at the Zelos site here.
One of the big names in dive watches for many decades is Doxa. Their new Sub 200 C-GRAPH is well worth a look if you’re serious about venturing underwater and want a chronograph. At nearly three grand (US dollars) it’s expensive for a 200m dive watch. But it offers a very high build quality and over a century of history behind that Doxa name. Here’s the press info;
In the line-up of diver’s watches developed by DOXA, the SUB 200 C-GRAPH stands out as a mechanically wound chronograph, recognizable by its three counters. It comes equipped with an automatic Swiss movement that provides a power reserve of approximately 45 hours.The chronograph function includes a central chronograph hand that rotates once around the dial every 60 seconds, a 30-minute chronograph counter positioned at 3 o’clock, and a 12-hour chronograph counter positioned at 6 o’clock.
With a diameter of 45 mm, made of the highest quality 316L stainless steel, the SUB 200 C GRAPH comes with a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a unidirectional rotating bezel. Featuring a screw-down crown, the watch is water-resistant to 200 meters (about 650 feet). All dive-related markings have a Super-LumiNova® luminescent coating to ensure optimum readability in low-visibility conditions.
Starting 2020, the SUB 200 C-GRAPH will be available in 6 colors. It can be ordered either with the iconic ‘beads of rice’ stainless steel bracelet or a sporty rubber strap, with distinctive DOXA cues on both sides, to match the dial color. The folding clasp features the exclusive DOXA fish symbol and has a diving extension to accommodate the thickness of a wetsuit.
We love Kickstarter independents because they are listening to what customers want. Fact is, if they get it wrong, then too few pledges roll in and the project falls on its ass at the first hurdle. We reckon this beautiful Vertigo Medusa dive watch, with a steel case and bracelet, 300m depth rating, and a trio of fume style dials, will hit the spot.
You can check out Vertigo’s previous watches, like the classic motorsport themed Tornante chronographs, on their Kickstarter page. Get an early bird email, so you’re in pole position on this Italian beauty.
Ball has launched a new variant on their Engineer Hydrocarbon dive model, called DeepQuest II. With a depth rating of 1000 metres, they are serious about the deep bit.
Made from titanium, this 42mm case sized watch is a high spec watch. The usual brilliant set of tubes illuminate the hands, bezel indices, plus 12 and 6pm position numerals. It’s a COSC certified, in-house Cal 7309 movement, with an 80-hour power reserve. It’s something Ball can be proud of as many watch brands use modified Sellita or ETA 2824 movements.
There’s also a neat twist on the usual helium escape valve; the DeepQUEST II features a patented diving innovation.
An automatic helium release valve is directly incorporated into the crown, which allows helium gas that develops underwater to safely escape during decompression. A standard helium release valve, is an extra opening on the case, which might compromise water resistance. So, Ball’s crown-integrated helium release valve, which they note as a world-first in watchmaking, gets around that issue.
A super-tough clasp is another Ball trademark feature that we love too. Those links are something Brunel would be proud of we say. This is an expensive watch at £3000, but you are getting something truly over-engineered, down to the last screw and pin.
The only question mark is on resale values. How popular would a three year old Ball Engineer watch be with collectors? Compared to an Oris Aquis Carysfort, or a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms you might find the percentage depreciation a bit higher.
We love Indie watch brands here because it’s all about making a dream reality; manufacturing on demand basically.
So a scout around Boldr Supply’s website today highlighted some limited edition models that are still available and may tempt you. Love bronze? The BOLDROdyssey Bronze comes with a Marine Grade CuSn8 bronze case, which will develop a unique patina with time and use – creating a distinctive character for each and every Odyssey Bronze watch that’s worn.
This organic individualization perfectly represents the BOLDR ideal, letting each watch and wearer tell their own unique story. The Odyssey’s signature bezel, which has also been updated with new markings for added functionality.
Featuring an extremely robust bronze case meant for actual diving, the Odyssey can ride rough with an ultra-tough high-resistance screw-down case back, rated for up to 500m water resistance, and a screw-down crown with triple lock mechanism. A resilient Japanese Automatic movement and special helium escape valve also make sure your watch stays strong under any pressure and is tried and tested for your toughest challenges.
There’s a 45mm case size on this model and an NH35 Seiko auto movement inside. At $649 we think that’s a very impressive dive watch for the money. Just the blue dial and green dial options left in stock on the BOLDR Odyssey model by the way.
The slimmer Expedition Everest model has a 41mm case, Sellita SW200 power, 200m depth, plus SuperLumiNova on the dial. Plus inner rotating bezel and rubber strap. Great go-anywhere tool watch for $599.