Tag Archives: chronograph

Cheers! The Citizen Root Beer Perpetual Chrono is The Boss

Citizen are always good value. No matter how much you love Swiss watches, and we do here at NWC mag, you have to admire Casio, Seiko and Citizen for constantly creating great looking watches with fab features, at Tissot Powermatic prices.

Take this new for 2021 `Root Beer’ flavour Perpetual AT model You get that rich brown n red colour combo that watch modders know and love. Plus atomic clock level timekeeping. Add on dual time, alarm function, power reserve indicator and a chunky 43mm case size and you have a tool watch, that kinda looks like a dress watch with its leather deployment clasp type strap.

Yep, that elegant Rotary steel/leather deployment touch adds a bit of everyday style to this number. But best of all, it costs just £429 and when you look at stuff like Hugo Boss, Armani or other fashion watchesn at this price point all you get is quartz battery stuff. PVD black cases and all that jazz.

Even the Swiss rivals aren’t offering solar cell power and perpetual calendar complications at around 400 notes. There’s a green dial variant at £499 too by the way.

More info here.

IWC Pilot Chrono Gets The AMG Merc Treatment

IWC Schaffhausen has launched a special Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition, branded “AMG”. The famous AMG initials denote high performance for every Merc fan so here’s the word from IWC on this new watch;

The first IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph in titanium is powered by the IWC-manufactured 69385 calibre movement and features a carbon fibre dial. IWC unveiled the new edition during a webcast conversation with IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr, Mercedes-AMG CEO Philipp Schiemer and shared brand ambassador and racing driver Maro Engel.

The long-standing collaboration between the Swiss luxury watchmaker and the performance and sports car brand Mercedes-AMG, is grounded in many common values, including the pursuit of technical perfection and uncompromising quality.

“The partnership between Mercedes-AMG and IWC has all the components that are needed for a successful and long-lasting collaboration. It’s very rare to come across a company and people with so many common interests and values.” said Philipp Schiemer, CEO of Mercedes-AMG.

Crafted from automotive engineering materials, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “AMG” (Ref. IW377903) is IWC‘s first 43mm Pilot‘s Watch Chronograph featuring the IWC-manufactured 69385 calibre, as well as the first Pilot‘s Watch Chronograph with a case made of extremely light and scratch-resistant titanium. The Grade 5 titanium finish gives the watch its matte grey appearance, inspired by AMG‘s signature Selenite Grey Magno paint finish.

The dial features precisely woven carbon fibre, a material directly derived from AMG‘s aero components. These parts are produced in a complex process involving heat and pressure and are known for their remarkable lightness and rigidity. The raw material is continuous carbon fibres, which are processed on weaving machines into textile structures, giving the end product its characteristic woven “carbon look”.

The black carbon dial provides the perfect contrast to the silver chronograph sub-dials, reminiscent of motorsport instruments.

The all-around performance watch is powered by the IWC-manufactured calibre 69385, a robust and precise chronograph movement that enables stop time measurements of up to 12 hours. The chronograph function is controlled by a column wheel, an intricate component with two functional levels. The Mercedes-AMG logo is emblazoned on the tinted sapphire crystal case back. The timepiece is fitted with a black embossed calf leather strap with contrast stitching and folding clasp.

The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “AMG” was unveiled at a webcast hosted by Philipp Schiemer and Christoph Grainger-Herr. Both elaborated on their passion for racing, the values both brands share, and the sustainable future of watchmaking and mobility. They were joined by Maro Engel, brand ambassador of both brands, who brought in the perspective of a professional racing driver. The webcast can be watched via https://watches.iwc.com/amgwebcast.

The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “AMG” will be available for pre-order from 21st May online at IWC.com, through IWC boutiques and authorised retail partners. The timepiece is eligible for registration under the My IWC care program and thus benefits from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.

Monsieur Ranoma Mechanical – Get 20% Off

Monsieur watches has a very handy 20% discount code available right now on its Ranomo mechanical. This features a Seagull movement, which is Chinese but generally considered one of the better made wind up movements.

It has an Italian leather strap plus sapphire crystals on the front and the see-thru caseback, which is nice for a budget watch.

Usual price is $389 so use the take20 code at Checkout if you like this panda dial chronograph.

More here.

Breitling Premier Models Offer Collector Appeal

Here’s one press release we missed earlier in April, but because we love vintage Breitling watches we wanted to post it. The Heritage Collection is arguably a bit niche, in that many modern watch buyers are investors looking to make money on the waiting list game. Others buy Breitling because the Bentley connection, or the aviation style and history.

But these are beautiful watches in their own right, that will not date quite so badly as say a 10 year old Avenger or Navitimer might do. The Top Time is another Breitling model we like as it captures the spirit of the original, without being an exact replica. There is a great deal to be said for reworking the greatest hits of the past for any watch brand, so long as you keep pushing on with some more innovative, sometimes quirky, designs.

Here’s the word from Breitling;

Inspired by the inventive spirit of Breitling’s founders, the new Premier Heritage Collection is for the modern and discerning man of impeccable taste. These exquisite timepieces are the brand’s most elegant and refined.

See thru caseback lets you absorb that stunning B09 movement.

The latest generation of Premiers – Breitling’s Premier Heritage Collection – brings this timeless elegance back to life. The collection includes six watches divided into three distinctive categories: The Chronograph, The Duograph, and The Datora. All feature Arabic numerals, vintage-inspired hands and semi-shiny alligator straps with tone-on-tone stitching. Every watch is a COSC-certified chronometer and water-resistant up to 100 meters.

Groundbreaking functions

The 40 mm Premier Heritage Chronograph is manually wound, just like its 1940s predecessors. It is powered by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B09, which is based on the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. It comes in two variations: with an eye-catching pistachio-green dial encased in stainless steel or a stately silver-colored dial encased in 18 k red gold.

Premier B15 Duograph 42mm has a classic elegance, will probably be the best seller of the trio.

With stainless-steel and 18 k red gold cases measuring 42 mm, the Premier Heritage Duograph comes with a blue or black dial, respectively. Its rattrapante function – one of the most elaborate in watchmaking – enables the wearer to measure two elapsed times simultaneously thanks to its two superimposed chronograph hands. This piece houses the mechanical hand-wound Breitling Manufacture Caliber B15, which is based on the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B03.

Like its 1940s predecessor, the 42 mm Premier Heritage Datora also stands out for its highly visible and complex functions, namely its day, date, and moon-phase displays. It is powered by the Manufacture Caliber B25. The Datora’s copper-colored face is framed by a stainless-steel case, while its silver-colored dial comes in an 18 k red gold one.

All three models of the Premier Heritage Collection highlight Breitling’s mastery of timekeeping as it has evolved over the generations.

Accurist Retro Racer is a Winner

Ladies n gentlemen, can we have a tip of the hat to Accurist who have launched a pretty decent 1970s chronograph for under £130. In fact we saw one example at £109 on Ideal World today.

The Retro Racer has a qaurtz movement, the usual chrono functions and a Milanese mesh bracelet option too. It only has a 50m depth rating so don’t go swimming while wearing it, but this is an everyday watch that captures 70s motorsport style with a selection of dial colours. We love the blue best, but the silver is cool and the black option with red second hand gives you that older 60s vibe. The brown leather strap has the Paddy Hopkirk perforated look as well.

The thing we like about this is that the case has those rounded angles on its old fashioned TV dial look. Accurist has been making round case chronographs for ages, but since they dropped the Sekonda Monaco homage, they haven’t really produced anything a bit different from most of the budget fashion quartz watches out there. (Yes, Sekonda, Limit and Accurist are owned by the same company)

This new Accurist watch could pass for one of the many Indie brand VK64 models out there on Kickstarter right now and yep, that’s a good thing.

Why? Well, Accurist has become the Honda Jazz of watches, it’s an old person watch brand, so if it’s going to survive then they need some punchy, sharp designs – and they need to make much more of their 1960s Old England heritage. Spaceman cases, steering wheel watches, Twiggy Union Jack revival…the opportunity is there, get busy.

Accurist has produced a sort of Zen And The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance video for the Retro Racer, which is worth a look;

 

 

Feeling the Goodwood Vibe? Try a Marchand Driver Chrono

If you are looking forward to getting along to Goodwood Festival of Speed, or the Revival in September, once the lockdown house arrest ends, then a Marchand watch could be just the thing. Styled here in the UK, these Seiko VK64 quartz watches have motorsport oozing from every pusher and the retro Driver Chronograph model is on pre-order offer right now, at £199. Price then rises to £259 after the first 100 pieces are sold.

By the way the Marchand pictured in the header image is on Amazon right now for £179 – just saying.

Here’s the blurb from Marchand;

The Retro Driver Chronograph MKII wrist watch is inspired by retro motor racing, a mix of technical and elegance… steel and leather making it a stunning vintage drivers watch for your weekend drives.
The Driver chrono mens watch delivers sensations of tradition and modernity, its blue dial refers to the classic GT cars of the 70s and 80s with the added ivory and orange features of the dial to really reflect retro race styling. Elegant on the wrist the Driver chronograph embraces its owner with a perforated padded, leather rally strap to remind of the leather upholstery and gloves of the drivers. Who doesn’t love motoring watches?
Fave colours? Got to be blue, then the bold yellow panda.
The Driver Chrono MKIIs feature a brushed 43mm all stainless steel with a brushed and polished bezel, it runs on a highly popular and modern Japanese Seiko caliber VK64 chronograph hybrid meca-quartz movement with highly scratch resistant sapphire crystal to protect the dial. These chronos have the subdial dials lowered disc cut effect and features luminous hands and hours indicators. The caseback features an etched retro racing driver’s helmet from the 70’s and lastly all models tailor a genuine leather strap with quick release pins, brushed buckle and etched logo.

 

Croque Monsieur? Non, Je Suis Achete le Chronographe

The Monsieur Ranomo (Panda) Quartz has a handy 20% off its list price of $199.00. Just use “take20” at checkout for 20% off all purchases says the brand. If, like us, you haven’t heard of the make, here’s the spec on this motorsports themed chronograph.

Monsieur Ranomo Series feat. Vintage Racing Chronograph. It has taken the 60s & 70s inspiration inspired from the likes of the Rolex Daytona to the Zenith El Primero, we decided to craft a panda and reverse panda with a racing tradition.

Key Specifications

–  Case Diameter: 38 mm Case
–  Thickness: 10 mm
–  Band Material: Genuine Italian Leather Band
–  Band Width: 20 mm
–  Total Weight: 40 g (Miyota 0S21)
–  Case Material: 316L
–  Back Plate: Sapphire Crystal Exhibition Back
–  Buckle: Standard Brushed Buckle
–  Buckle Material: Stainless Steel
–  Dial Window Material: K1 Domed Sapphire Coated
–  Display: Chronograph
–  Movement: Japanese Miyota 0S21
–  Date Function: Yes (*Only For Miyota 0S21)
–  Seconds Function: Yes
–  Water Resistant: 5 ATM / 50 Meters

What’s included in the order:

1x Watch box

1x Brown leather case

1x Watch + strap

Sinn ST144 Anniversary is An Old School Chrono

Sinn have a new collection for spring 2021, with the ST 144 being a revival of a traditional design. This model has an old fashioned motorsport feel to it and looks the business, very stopwatch efficient with its red second hand. Inside there is a Concepto 25 jewel movement, which is an independent Swiss manufactured piece, which as far as we can tell does all the stuff you want a chronograph to do.

Here’s some background on Swiss movement supply for you watch fans; The Swiss movement industry is subject to EU political pressure, as for decades ETA had a near-monopoly on supply to indie watch brands and then an agreement was reached a few years ago that some brands would manufacture in-house, and others would obtain their movements from alternative makers like Sellita, Soprod, Eterna or Felsa. One thing the EU hates is an efficient manufactuer on its doorstep making luxury goods and exporting them into the eurozone without ticking lots of ideological boxes on free trade, diversity or climate agenda stuff. So that is why Sinn – and other brands – cannot keep on fitting a Valjoux 7750 inside every chronograph they produce. There has to be a diversity of movement supply, or at least the appearance of it. Even though it would be more efficient in terms of resource and energy consumption to have say two movement suppliers making all mechanical movements in Switzerland.

Anyway, Concepto are Swiss based, modern factory and aiming high in terms of quality, so you’re buying a genuine Swiss quality timepiece for 3250 euros – which is reassuring.

Here’s the word from Sinn;

Launched in 1974, model 144 is one of the most traditional watches in our range.

To mark our company’s 60th anniversary, we are now introducing a special limited edition of 600 timepieces in the form of the 144 St S Anniversary II. This model clearly demonstrates the timelessness of our instrumental, technical watches. The 144 St S Anniversary II is also a fine example of how we are constantly developing our classic timepieces. For example, the old 144 featured a black chrome-plated case with mineral glass and was only pressure-resistant up to 5 bar.

The 144 St S Anniversary II takes things to the next level in many respects. For instance, this timepiece is equipped with a wide range of technical features, is resistant to low pressure, waterproof and can withstand pressures of up to 20 bar. Ar-Dehumidifying Technology ensures greater functional reliability and freedom from fogging. The bead-blasted surface of the stainless-steel case has also been hardened using Tegiment Technology, making it especially scratch-resistant. This type of technology forms the basis for the high-quality Black Hard Coating. Typical of a 144, our anniversary edition also features a combined tachymeter and pulsometer scale.

The prominent positioning and intuitive readability of the white counters for the stopwatch minutes and seconds give this anniversary edition a modern look, without forsaking its traditional feel. As a reminiscence of the company’s anniversary, the number 60 of the pulsometer scale has been applied in orange-red daylight luminous paint. It has a 41mm case diameter and there is a nine week delivery time on this new model.

Our limited edition 144 St S Anniversary II with unique numbering comes in a fine case with a black solid bracelet and a black silicone strap.

SHIPPING APARTHEID

By the way there is a 120 euros shipping cost to non-EU countries, which is pretty spiteful for residents of the UK and NI, but entirely to be expected after the bitterness of Brexit. Bitterness by the EU naturally. The cost for German delivery is zero euro, but someone in Denmark has to pay 50 euros. Astonishing. How are they getting away with it?

Finally, They Nailed It- Bremont Supermarine Is a Winner

Bremont have just opened a new factory in the UK and you have to say hats off to them, because most brands would have simply designed their watches here in Britain, and had production outsourced to Singapore, possibly Switzerland on the more expensive models. But no, British-made watches (yeah Swiss movements we know, but give them a chance) and what’s more, the new Supermarine chronograph is probably going to be a hot seller, even at £5400 or so.

Let’s start with the dial which is a classic three sub-dial, reversed white on black affair. It’s punchy, tool watch functional, a classic mix of GMT and lumed hands. Set inside the 43mm case is a Bremont BE54 movement, with a stunning rotor that’s embossed with the Bremont name and a series of paddle shaped cut-outs. Little SBS/Commando detail that we love. The BE54 is based on the reliable Valjoux 7750 so you won’t have much trouble getting this serviced by an independent watchmaker when you need to – handy.

The bezel is ceramic, bi-directional and its rated at 200m so you can scuba dive on holiday – if you’re allowed abroad of course. I love the pushers and crown details on this model, they remind me of Thunderbird 3 and yeah, I think that’s a good thing.

The blue dial version looks pretty spectacular as well, and you can choose silicone strap or steel bracelet. The see-thru caseback is sapphire of course, and shows off that modified 7750 movement plus the Bremont rotor perfectly. This watch will delight the eye for decades and you have to admit, the same could not be said about some previous Bremont efforts.

This brand is turning things around now and if they can add a calculator on import duties in key markets to their online checkout then they have got it made. That’s a tall order I know, but you have to admit that the EU is making life hard for the UK and will continue to do so because…well mafia innit?

So if customers in China, Aus, USA, EU and Japan can all see exactly what the total cost of the watch is, then I think they may be tempted. This is a worthy rival to a TAG Autavia Heritage, an Omega Planet Ocean or Breitling Chronomat and although it is uinlikely to hold its resale value quite so well as those three watches, it’s definitely a watch you could pass down the family 30 years on – it has all the right elements, tough spec and plenty of visual appeal. Good work Bremont.

 

Pottery Throwdown? No, This IWC is Tough Stuff

IWC have a strong reputation when it comes to pilots watches, in fact some might say they are the go-to choice. Others would perhaps choose a Breitling, or maybe a Bell & Ross. So a new variation – and a revival of a cult classic – of the familiar Pilot Chronograph is always interesting. Here’s the press release from IWC;

With the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705”, IWC Schaffhausen travels back in time to honour the legendary Ceramic Fliegerchronograph (ref. 3705) from 1994. After fading into obscurity for almost a quarter of a century, it became a cult classic and is now considered one of the most sought-after models from IWC’s recent history. The new tribute edition faithfully replicates the original’s dial design. Instead of using ceramic, however, it features a case made of Ceratanium®, a groundbreaking new material developed by IWC. Powered by the in-house 69380 calibre and fitted on a black calfskin strap, this special edition is limited to 1000 watches and sold exclusively on IWC.com.

Now we are no fans of watches or bracelets made from pottery here at The Northern Watch Co, because they shatter like a kid’s toy on Boxing Day. So this is good news, but there’s more;

Throughout its 152-year history, IWC has created modern icons such as the Big Pilot or the Portugieser Chronograph. But tucked away in the archives, there are also hidden gems; timepieces that are overlooked before they shoot to unexpected fame. One such model is the “IWC Fliegerchronograph Keramik” from 1994, which was IWC’s first Pilot’s Watch with a case made of black zirconium oxide ceramic. Despite its use of this highly innovative material and its purist instrument design, the chronograph enjoyed little success. After only about a thousand pieces, production was discontinued a few years later.

Very spartan, functional and matt black.

FROM OBSCURITY TO A CULT CLASSIC

The ref. 3705 did not become famous until about a quarter of a century later. Following various articles on specialised blogs, the “Black Flieger” caught the attention of a growing number of watch enthusiasts. With luminous indices and hands, which had aged over time to a warm orange, the once-forgotten chronograph was winning collector’s hearts with its distinct neovintage charm. One piece from the personal collection of former IWC director Günter Blümlein was auctioned for a staggering 53,750 US dollars. But the ref. 3705 does not only embody IWC’s heritage as a manufacturer of professional instrument watches for aviators. With its black ceramic case, the model is also an early testimony to the extensive materials expertise that IWC has acquired since the 1980s; a quality that still distinguishes the company as a modern watchmaker today.

FROM ZIRCONIUM OXIDE CERAMIC TO CERATANIUM®

The newly released Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” (Ref. 387905) pays homage to this exceptional timepiece and is limited to 1000 pieces. The dial is a replica of the original from the 1990s. Two totalizers at 9 and 12 o’clock display stop times of up to 12 hours, the small second is located at 6 o’clock. Another feature is the day and date display at 3 o’clock. The ref. 3705 was pioneering in the use of black ceramic, and the tribute edition likewise features a recent innovation from IWC’s material scientists: the case, chronograph pushers and pin buckle are made of Ceratanium®, an IWC-developed material that is light and robust like titanium, but also similarly hard and scratch-resistant like ceramic. In the first step, the case components are machined from a special titanium alloy. Afterwards, the parts are treated in a furnace firing process, during which a phase transformation takes place, and the surface of the material assumes properties similar to ceramic.

It has the edge over the Omega Speedmaster in terms of easy-to-read dial markers n hands, would you agree?

POWERED BY THE IN-HOUSE 69 CALIBRE

While the original ref. 3705 was powered by the Valjoux calibre 7750, the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” boasts sophisticated movement technology from Schaffhausen. Inside the 41-millimetre case, the in-house 69380 calibre is at work. This robust and precise chronograph movement in classic column wheel design is one of the latest developments from IWC’s engineers. A bi-directional pawl winding system reliably builds up a power reserve of 46 hours. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is available exclusively through IWC.com, wechat, YNAP, and official flagship store on Tmall as a limited edition of 1000 pieces.