Eza watches has sent us some info on their new Sealander Bronze model, which retails for just over £1100.
Obviously there’s a bronze 41mm case, with an ETA 2824 movement inside – these movements are becoming increasingly rare from Indie brands, so that is worth a price premium to an extent, as many now have Miyota/Seiko engines inside.
The watch is made in Germany, so when you buy for $1095 you have 20% VAT and UK imkport duties on top, plus any admin fees the delivery service can apply. We reckon it will total up at £1100 plus, but sadly nobody knows unless they buy it.
This ongoing problem with import duties and other fees needs to be fixed, otherwise watch sales are going to become difficult for Indie makers. Big brands can use Freeport warehouses to get around this mess, but smaller companies are trapped and can only push all the admin and costs onto the customer.
Great looking dive watch, 300m depth, and an ETA engine – it has a great deal of plus points. Long term, an Oris might hold its value better, but you will pay more than £1400 for an Oris with 300m rating.
Here’s the tech spec on the Sealander;
Swiss Calibre ETA 2824 Automatic, Ligne 11-1/2’”, 25 jewels, 28.800bph, 38-40 hour power reserve, adjusted by Eza Watches to six positions. Functions
Automatic & manual winding, Display by means of hands: hour, minute, second. Date calendar, Stop second device, Shock-absorber for balance staff. Case
CUAI9 bronze case with mixed brushed and high gloss finish. Case diameter 41.0mm, lug width 22.0mm, case thickness 14.2mm (including the double domed glass), lug to lug 49 mm.
High gloss 316L Stainless Steel Caseback with engraved logo.
Dial with high gloss indexes filled with C3 SuperLuminova™.
Ceramic bezel insert with C3 SuperLuminova™ at 12 o’clock. Crystal
Double domed anti-reflective, scratch resistant sapphire crystal. Water resistance
Water resistant to 30 ATM, 300 meters. Strap
Vintage leather and nato strap. Ratings
Adjusted to six positions and tested.
The latest variant on the Omega Seamaster is the 300 Bronze, which combines classic styling with the gradual patina of bronze alloy and the weathered look that emerges over time. Here’s the press info;
Omega first introduced the Seamaster 300 in 1957 – designed especially for divers and professionals who worked underwater. More than 60 years later, the collection has been completely upgraded, and includes this special model created in Omega’s own bronze alloy.
The 41 mm case and bezel are crafted from 9K Bronze Gold, while the brown ceramic bezel ring includes a diving scale in vintage Super-LumiNova. On the bronze dial, you’ll find recessed hour markers and open numerals with Super-LumiNova, as well as PVD Bronze Gold coloured hands. Presented on a brown leather strap with a 9K Bronze Gold buckle, this timepiece includes a transparent sapphire crystal caseback, enabling a clear view of the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912.
Calibre: Omega 8912
Self-winding movement with Co-Axial escapement.
Certified Master Chronometer, approved by METAS,
resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss. Freesprung balance with silicon balance spring, two barrels
mounted in series, automatic winding in both directions.
Time zone function. Special luxury finish with Geneva
waves in arabesque.
Power reserve: 60 hours
Domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment inside.
Known for their pilot themed watches Bell & Ross have a natty dive model, with a striking red dial and bronze case. Here’s the press info;
Bell & Ross has developed DIVER BRONZE timepieces that are perfectly in-keeping with the marine depth. After releasing a black version in 2018, a green version in 2019, and a blue one last year, the brand is now completing its shade card with red.
BR 03-92 DIVER RED BRONZE
Its case and bezel are made of satin-polished CuSn8 Bronze, an alloy combining 92% Copper and 8% Tin, that is deeply linked to diving history as it was used in the past for deep-sea helmets and naval construction. Adorning hints of pink, the bronze will age well. The patina will emphasize the authentic and unique character of this DIVER watch, much-loved by collectors. Anodised red for the bezel, red lacquer for the dial and a reddish-brown strap. The 3 shades work in perfect harmony and feature a high-quality finish. As on previous versions, all the metal parts of the case are made from bronze except the case-back, which is made from stainless steel, and the anodised
aluminium bezel ring.
Available in a limited edition of 500, the BR 03-92 DIVER RED BRONZE sports the watch’s emblem, a deep-sea diver’s helmet that is engraved on the case-back. Precious yet resistant, the BR 03-92 DIVER RED BRONZE is full of character and designed to accompany the gentleman adventurer both on land and at sea. The brand’s constant strive for excellence, challenge and innovation is confirmed in this elegant BR 03-92 DIVER RED BRONZE that meets all the standards for diving watches set by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, ISO 6425. Water resistant to 300 metres, it is ready to conquer the depths of the ocean. The matte brown leather strap and beige stitching confirms
the watch’s authentic vintage spirit but can be replaced with a rubber strap for use while diving.
Zelos has announced the drop of the Bronze SF40 model which features an all new bronze bracelet. These bracelets have a unique dual material construction to prevent the bronze from coming into contact with your skin and turning it green. That can happen quite easily with bronze, so having a steel surface on the inside of the links is a good move. The CUSN8 bronze used for the case and bracelets will patina over time.
The SF40 comes standard with a tropic rubber strap and bronze buckle. Inside the 40mm case there is a Seiko NH35 automatic mopvement. The bronze bracelets are available separately and are priced higher than regular steel bracelets due to the complexity in construction, says Zelos.
The model will be available from tomorrow onwards, shipping and UK import duties will apply on the Checkout price of course.
This Kickstarter project caught our eye for two reasons, first it is a bronze watch that is ultra thin. This is great because quite a few bronze watches look like an old school Jules Verne diver’s helmet. Secondly, you can specify ETA or Miyota movement inside, which is always good for those who want that Swiss vibe. It can boost resale value too, let’s be honest.
The Miyota models start at just $489 on the early bird deal, with delivery expected around June 2021. The ETA models start at about $1000 and you get a premium, handmade-in-Japan, leather strap and box with it as part of the deal.
But the real value of this watch is in the details. Things like the superlume on the markers and hands, the polished caseback and Harrison H1 chronometer etched-on logo, ceramic bezel and much more. The wave effect on the dial for example, just catches the eye and makes you want to glance at the watch again. This watch is 42mm across and just 13.4mm high. That is super slender, like Instagram pout model skinny.
Bear in mind the H1 model has a depth rating of 500m, yes that’s over 1600 feet deep, so this has to withstand a lot of pressure. In short Zeitgeist have created something very premium, impressive build quality, with a dive functionality that matches some Blancpain models, at a Hamilton or Tissot price. That is a powerful set of reasons to consider this watch and it is no surprise that the Kick project has been over-subscribed already, with £22,000 pledged.
Magrette Watches down in NZ have got a new model on pre-order. Here’s the lowdown on the Moana Pacific Waterman, Bronze edition.
The Waterman name represents us as New Zealanders and our Māori and Pacific Island whānau, our shared love of the water. Two colourways are now available including the Waterman Bronze and the new Waterman Vintage. It’s $765 on the pre-order deal for the bronze case model, and $665 for the stainless steel case, which we think is a very fair price given the spec; Swiss movement, sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel, 500m dive rating and superlume in just the right places.
The Waterman Bronze case patina changes every day, like the ocean itself and the changing landscape of time. The symbolism of the blue dial represents New Zealand’s surrounding waters—the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean. The 42mm case is constructed from marine grade CuSn8 bronze; when the patina forms it is hard and forms a protective surface layer. It uniquely takes on the character of the owner and their environment.
The new Waterman Vintage is cased in brushed stainless steel and features a velvet black dial and black ceramic bezel paired with warm-toned Swiss Super-LumiNova®. Note: At the time of this launch only renderings available as included in the photo gallery.
Both watches feature the robust Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic mechanical movement, paired with textured rubber (blue or black) and vintage minimal stitch leather straps.
The new Broadsword models from Bremont capture the military feel perfectly. With a bronze case and dial designs inspired by the famous `Dirty Dozen’ movie, and the watches featured in the film, these are high-spec, hand-assembled watches built for a tough life. The 40mm bronze case has a dash of tin in there, which Bremont says helps durability. Naturally, there’s a sapphire crystal and three dial colour choices; slate, green/teal and tobacco brown. The BE movement has 31 jewels, and is something of a make or break project for Bremont.
Why? Well, Bremont have just invested a huge amount of cash in building a factory in the UK, and they are making their own in-house movements, after some critcism a few years back. Like many independent watch brands, Bremont started out buying in Swiss movements. But long term, if you want to compete at the luxury/collector end of the market, where buyers are forking out £3000-£6000 per watch, then you really have to go bespoke. Fact is, anyone can buy a really good auto/mechanical watch, bronze case, 300m dive rating, with an ETA/Sellita movement for £500. So you need to justify the price tag with technology and unique, `made in Britain’ appeal.
The sub-second dial is a nice touch, a nod to the old Dirty Dozen and `Arrow’ watches from WWII of course. But in some ways, it limits the appeal as it paints the Broadsword into an old fashioned corner. There’s no denying it’s a functional tool watch, but it won’t impress anyone with a keen eye for design. It lacks the visual punch of a Breitling Endurance for example, or the jet-age instrument cluster vibe of a Bell & Ross.
The new range feature each of the three main UK armed forces, Army, Navy and RAF on the caseback and are priced at £2995. Verdict? Wait for a limited edition VE Day/SAS edition to be released, then buy one of say 500 numbered watches. That’s far more likely to be a genuine collectors item one day.
Zelos are one of our fave dive watch brands and the reason is simple; great spec for a very reasonable price. You cannot argue at paying around $400 for a 300m dive watch, with a bronze case, sapphire crystal and handsome dial options. Oh yes and super luminova markers and hands too.
The popular Mako V3 is making a comeback, with orders being taken later in September for this Miyota powered model. With a 40mm case the Mako is a watch that will suit mosts wrists, as some 44-45mm watches can feel too big for daily use.
There are special launch price discounts, so the range starts at $399. We love the teal dial models, and the green dial/bronze case combo. The early bird discounts end on the 15th October 2020 by the way. After that date, the entry model price shifts up to $499, plus customs charges/shipping.
Maurice Lacroix watches are one of those middling Swiss brands that many collectors swerve, mainly due to the poor resale values. I’ve seen jewellers blow dust off a Lacroix watch in the Pre-Owned window for three Christmas seasons in a row before finally cutting 500 quid from the asking price to get rid of it.
That said, they are proper watches and the Pontos is a respctable auto model with top notch build quality. We love the bronze case model with the green dial, it’s a got a real symmetry and simplicity about it. Worth paying over £2500 for a 7750 or SW200 powered watch when there are plenty of 7750/200 engined cheaper rivals out there? Hmm, jury’s out on that point.
To celebrate 20 years of Pontos, ML have issued a special edition, plus a few upgrades to existing models. Here’s the word from their press office;
An alternating set of matte and shiny finishes highlights the profile of a case shared by the three models of the PONTOS collection. The first is the PONTOS Chronograph Monopusher, launched as a limited edition to celebrate the collection’s 20th anniversary. The second is a new version of the steel automatic chronograph, the PONTOS Chronograph. The third is a new extension of the Day-Date model, available as an exceptional bronze version with a green dial, or in steel with a silvered dial.
THE NOBILITY OF A CLASSIC COMPLICATION
The PONTOS Chronograph Monopusher is a limited edition of 500 pieces and plays on impressions with initially unsuspected depth. Here, the ML166 automatic monopusher chronograph calibre is used as a historical reference to the development of complications as well as for its aesthetic benefits. Its single pusher creates asymmetry and breaks with common expectations of chronographs.
After all, nothing about the PONTOS Chronograph Monopusher is truly classic. Its dimensions of 41 mm are completely contemporary. The same goes for the treatment of the steel. Maurice Lacroix has coated it using PVD technology to make it totally black and durable, ensuring resistance to abrasion and scratches, but above all uncompromising aesthetics. A gradient stretches across the dial, with black at the edges that gradually grows lighter towards the centre, which is a mid-grey. Halfway across, the telemeter and tachymeter come into view, one red and the other blue.
These two scales cross paths with the chronograph’s minute counter and the small seconds, creating a complex design appreciated by fans of traditional watchmaking. They will also pick up on the circular-grained and Côtes de Genève finishes of the movement, and a sunray-brushed oscillating weight with Côtes de Genève, visible through a transparent sapphire case back.
THE MODERNITY OF A TIMELESS CHRONOGRAPH
Two versions of the PONTOS Chronograph have arrived, blending modernity and timeless style as always. Inside the PONTOS steel case with a larger diameter of 43 mm, the ML112 automatic chronograph calibre gives PONTOS a whole new dimension. The dial is available as a lacquered white or sunray-brushed grey version, where the hour markers take the form of applied Arabic numerals for the first time.
The PONTOS Chronograph pieces draw on an unusual colour balance that is actually a common Maurice Lacroix stylistic feature. The white dial therefore contrasts with a bright blue tint, while yellow gold appliqués stand out against the grey dial. These shades, textures and the soft, rounded font of the Arabic numerals create a powerful design dynamic and exude a contemporary, sport-chic style that lies at the heart of the PONTOS Chronograph identity.
These same shades are adopted by the partially skeletonised hands and the counters at 6 and 12 o’clock, which are used to read the chronograph indications. The PONTOS Chronograph pieces are available on a blue calfskin strap with Maurice Lacroix’s M logo, complemented by a three-link steel bracelet. This bracelet adopts the same alternating satin-finished and polished finishes of the case that accentuate its edges.
Last but not least, the PONTOS Chronograph case backs bear an engraving marking the 20th anniversary of the collection.
A DIAL WITH A WEALTH OF DETAILS
The PONTOS Day-Date – the first model from the PONTOS range to have been redesigned in 2017 – is joined by two new versions. Yet the design details of this 41 mm model remain unchanged, with triangular hour-markers, a sunken minute circle, cut-outs in the dial at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock that highlight the date and the day respectively, and slightly trapezoidal hands with a rigorous design.
The effect produced by these geometric elements and their clever positioning on flatteringly finished dials is the result of pertinent modernity. It makes the PONTOS Day-Date pieces truly timeless and capable of standing the test of time.
Maurice Lacroix has built on these foundations with a unlimited edition that presents a bronze case and a green dial. The tones of the rose gold PVD-treated hands and the bronze case are reflected in the rhodium-plated hour-markers, their facets changing colour with each movement. This mirror effect is further amplified by the bottle green shade of the dial, which bestows a vintage yet contemporary look on the model.
Alongside this, the PONTOS Day-Date welcomes an incredibly understated silvered sunray-brushed dial, warmed up by an appliqué logo, hands and hour-markers that are rose gold in colour. The full elegance of the PONTOS Day-Date is revealed thanks to a three-link steel bracelet or a matte black calfskin strap, all the while keeping its vigour and modern twist.
UP TO DATE
PONTOS is not afraid of paradoxes. Twenty years after its launch, the collection is more capable than ever of inspiring awe thanks to its details, quality of workmanship and contrasts. It also boasts a variety of models, movements and complications with plenty of potential remaining for the future. The renewed relevance of its design brings PONTOS up to date and ensures it will last. These assets are further emphasised by Maurice Lacroix’s desire to present these high-quality models at fair prices.
Bowrington are an indie brand based in Hong Kong and have delved into naval history to find inspiration ofr this vintage 42mm bronze cased automatic. Featuring a nice aged patina, lume on dial, vintage leather strap and tropical style dial colour, it’s on Kickstarter right now and heading towards its funding target.
Dubbed HMS Tamar, this watch marks the sinking of the Tamar in Hong Kong harbour during World War Two, when the British base there came under attack from the Japanese.
HMS Tamar was actually a Victorian era ship, powerd by sails and steam engines. In the early 20th century it had been converted into a floating base at HK, serving as an admin centre, training barracks etc. It was towed out into the harbour and scuttled as the Japanese attacked on 11th December 1941, during a night-time attack. The Tamar held air in the hull for some time and would not sink, so the British gun battery had to shoot holes into it to make sure it vanished benath the waves. The wreckage was discovered in 2015 and the anchor is on display in HK today.
OK, back to the watch. The Bowrington is owered by a trusty Seiko NH35 movement, this is a budget auto for collectors who want that classic bronze/steampunk vibe. It has a 22m lug width, so you can choose another vintage strap or bracelet if you like. The watch is rated at 200m depth and the winding crown is also bronze by the way.
At just £211 on the early bird price, this is a very good value automatic watch and one of the cheapest bronze cased watches we have seen on the market recently.