Category Archives: German watches

Sinn 717 Wins Design Excellence Award

Latest from Sinn in Germany, who have won a German design award.

The jury honours the conceptual design of the 717 with the award Excellent Product Design 2022 for “combining the past with the future in the most stylish way and perfectly embodying the brand DNA of Sinn Spezialuhren down to the last detail.”

“We are really pleased that the 717 received this award – it confirms our principle of developing and designing watches in strict conformity with the relevant requirements”, comments Lothar Schmidt, qualified engineer, owner of Sinn Spezialuhren.

Design quality unites both award-winning products

The German Design Award sets the highest standards for determining its award winners: during the course of an exacting nomination procedure, only those products with design qualities that demonstrably set them apart from their competition will be selected by the expert panels from the “Rat für Formgebung” (German Design Council) to participate in the competition.

More than 5,000 nominated products were submitted to the panel of judges. The international panel of judges is composed of design experts from industry, teaching and science as well as the design industry. All members of the panel of judges are recognised experts in their fields.

During a two-day assessment process, the panel makes a final, well-founded decision on the design quality of the presentations. As part of the evaluation process, the panel attaches great importance to criteria such as the degree of innovation, functionality and usability, technical quality and function, as well as durability and ergonomics.

SINN Are on The Road To Damascus

SINN has sent us some info on a limited edition watch and so yeah, we couldn’t resist that headline.

We’re presenting the 100-piece limited-edition, individually numbered 1800 S GG DAMASZENER. Made from genuine forge-welded Damascus steel, this watch seamlessly reflects the high quality of the predecessor models.

At the same time, it sets its own highlights without relinquishing the charm of the special material, which are skilfully set off by the hands and appliqués made of 18-carat gold.

Where functionality defines design and every little detail serves to highlight the innovative technology at play, this is where Sinn Spezialuhren is at work.

Has a kind of wood effect dial, don’t you think?

For example, in 1995 we presented the first watch made from 22-carat yellow gold with a material hardness equal to that of stainless steel (220 HV). In 2005, German Submarine Steel was used for the first time in diving watches.

The launch of our 100-piece limited-edition 1800 S DAMASZENER marks the first time we rendered the highly traditional material, Damascus steel, into a form suitable for watch cases, a sophisticated concept flawlessly upheld in our 100-piece limited-edition 1800 DAMASZENER.

More info here.

New Stuff: Two Ceratanium Top Gun Models From IWC

Here’s the latest from IWC and yep, we love that matt black, stealth fighter look.

IWC Schaffhausen is adding two Ceratanium® models to its TOP GUN Pilot’s Watch range. Engineered in Schaffhausen, this innovative new material combines the structural integrity of titanium with a scratch resistance similar to that of ceramic and features a striking matte black color.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Ceratanium is the first watch from IWC with a Ceratanium® bracelet, which is lighter than steel and very comfortable to wear. Just 150 pieces of this model will be produced each year, says IWC.

Timezoner edition.

The Pilot’s Watch Timezoner TOP GUN (pictured above) will be produced in 500 pieces per year. (Dear watch brands, you don’t have to keep using CAPITALS for every model name, it just looks like you’re SHOUTING. )

WHO NEEDS A GMT HOUR HAND?

Ceratanium is the first TOP GUN model with a Timezoner® complication, allowing the wearer to change between different time zones effortlessly. Both novelties are powered by IWC-manufactured movements from the 52000 and 82000 calibre families.

The watch can be set to a different time zone by simply pressing down and rotating the bezel. The hour hand, the 24-hour display and the date will move forwards or backwards in one-hour steps. This also works across the dateline and without losing a single second.

Ceratanium bracelet on the Big Pilot.

CERAMICS & TITANIUM

Advanced performance materials such as ceramics, titanium and Ceratanium® are a signature feature of IWC’s TOP GUN pilot’s watches. They take their name from the legendary Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Program, a rigorous course used by the US Navy to train its elite pilots in flying and tactical skills.

After pioneering the use of ceramics and titanium for wristwatches during the 1980s, IWC’s material engineers have now succeeded in combining the unique strengths of these two in a single, ground-breaking material. Developed over five years, Ceratanium® combines the lightness and structural integrity of titanium with a hardness and scratch-resistance similar to ceramic. In addition, Ceratanium® is also skin-friendly and highly resistant to corrosion.

WHAT IS THIS MITHRAL OF WHICH YOU SPEAK?

Yes, a Lord of The Rings watch made from mithral would be something, but in the meantime, we have Ceratanium from IWC. What is this magic metal then?

Ceratanium® is based on a special titanium alloy that is forged to IWC’s specifications.

The case components are machined from bars to minimal tolerances using computer-controlled turning and milling centers and are then elaborately finished by hand. Afterwards, the components are fired in a kiln at high temperatures. During this firing process, a phase transformation occurs. As a result, the surface of the material not only obtains properties similar to ceramics, such as hardness and scratchresistance, but also its striking matte black finish.

So now you know.

More at the IWC website here.

Junghans Traffic Light System

Junghans has revived a rather good idea from the 50s – a tricolour power reserve indicator.

Yes, a natty green-amber-red, traffic lights style power reserve indicator has been grafted neatly onto its Meister Gangreserve model. No, that isn’t a quasi-religious cult on Game of Thrones, it’s the actual name of the watch. This is a limited edition by the way, just 160 pieces, retails at £1690.

Here’s the word from Junghans.

An index-style, colour-coded indicator on the dial is a particularly well-defined and smartly discreet representation of the amount of power still available to the movement on the Meister Gangreserve Edition 160 from Junghans.

This classic archetype, albeit with a new and subtle concept, is utilised in three of the Edition models, each limited to just 160 units in celebration of this anniversary year. Mechanical watches with coloured segments in an opening on the dial at the 6 o’clock position, provided to indicate when winding was once again required, were unveiled by Junghans as far back as the 1950s.

Exquisitely elegant colouring
The Meister Gangreserve Edition 160 is available in three different design variants, each expressing the elegance of the watch series in its own individual fashion: the charm of the stainless steel model is its fine silver-plated dial and metal bracelet conceived especially for the Meister line. At the same time, both versions of leather strap are simply enchanting either as a combination of warm gold hue with light brown, or an appealing interaction of night blue and cognac.

Harmoniously blending with the overall appearance of the timepiece, the colouring of the power reserve complication is specially adapted for each of the three variants. Discreetly integrated as an index-style aperture at six o’clock, it coordinates seamlessly with the dial arrangement typical of the Meister line, with accentuated main indices and pointed hands.

The model with stainless steel bracelet shows the power reserve in the universally recognised colours of a traffic light system – namely red, amber and green. In both leather strap versions, the power reserve display and the dial are coloured identically when the watch is fully wound.

From all but completely indiscernible, the power reserve display then begins to glow ever brighter as the available power diminishes: Up until the remaining power reserve is reduced to fifty percent, the aperture in the dial transitions through ever more intense shades of grey, before the red signal colour used in the original design becomes ever more apparent to indicate a pending, complete depletion of energy.

With the dial revealing the fascinating progression of time, a transparent panel on the back of the case grants a view of the embellished self-winding movement of the Meister power reserve. In addition, the engraved limitation number serves as validation that every copy of this anniversary model is an exclusive collector’s item.

More info here.

 

Sinn 6060B Worldtimer: Sharp Dressed Man

Sinn has sent us info on their Worldtimer dress watch, which will be available from Feb 2022. It’s a Sellita SW330 powered auto, see-thru caseback and 38.5mm across, so quite compact by modern standards. Here’s the press info;

The first Frankfurt Financial District Watch was unveiled in 1999 and marked a landmark decision for our company. Up until then, the name Sinn Spezialuhren had been synonymous with innovative timepieces specially designed for pilot and diving missions. The expansion towards classic, elegant series proved to be hugely popular with our customers. After all, a Frankfurt Financial District Watch is the perfect accessory for festive occasions or day-to-day business – exhibiting both elegance and the durability typical of Sinn Spezialuhren.

The appeal of this series is now being further enhanced by the new model 6060 B. This watch gains its allure from the blue dial, which is exquisitely finished with a sunburst decoration.

The model also features characteristics that connoisseurs of this series have come to appreciate. For example, the Frankfurt World Time Watch 6060 B is characterised by three time zones that can be read simultaneously. The movement is exquisitely decorated. Particularly eye-catching are the Geneva stripes and blued screws. Sapphire crystal is used for both the watch crystal and the transparent case back, offering an impressive view of the bull and bear rotor engraving.

While the case is made of polished stainless steel, the appliqués attached to the blue dial are luminous, along with the hour and minute hands. The watch is also waterproof and pressure-resistant up to 10 bar and resistant to low pressure.

Model 6060 B comes in a fine wooden case with a stainless-steel fine link bracelet, cowhide strap, a band replacement tool, spare spring bars, an Eschenbach watchmaker’s loupe, a care cloth and a brochure.

Sinn 103 Chrono: Special Ltd Edition 60th Anniversary

Sinn has sent us info on their limited edition 103 chronograph. Just 600 pieces will be produced, classic Sinn styling, perfect if you are a fan of the Pilot watch look. Here’s the press kit word;

The 103 is more closely connected to our company than just about any other series. After all, it was these timepieces that acquainted pilots, in particular, with the name Sinn Spezialuhren once the company was founded. We’ve also continuously expanded the series, adding, for example, the latest SINN technologies and other
features.

Classic in every sense of the word, this pilot chronograph is the perfect celebration of our company’s 60th anniversary – in the form of a special edition limited to 600 pieces. The 103 Classic 12 lives up to its reputation as a classic timepiece, but also boasts a modern interpretation, as demonstrated, for example, by the bezel insert made from ceramic – a material which appears for the first time on the 103 and is characterised by its outstanding hardness and the resulting exceptional scratch resistance.

The captive bezel features a twelve-hour scale to display a second time zone. The engraved numerals on the bezel are the colour of chamois, which is reflected in the three counters, all the printed elements and the luminous colour. The attached appliqués
are rhodium-plated and luminous, as are the hour, minute and stopwatch second hand.

Even the place of origin of the watch is mentioned by name. The ‘Sinn Frankfurt am Main’ lettering thus adorns the glossy black dial with decorative sunburst to mark the anniversary. To mark the special occasion, the edge of the transparent back features
the limited-edition number as well as the engravings ‘1961-2021’ and ‘60 Jahre’.

Glashutte Is Doing That Seventies Thing

Do you love that 1970s style of watch manufacturing, with big bold TV dials and cases? Some, like the Zenith El Primero from that era, are now rising in value as people discover the Seventies Swagger they never really experienced first time around – since they weren’t even born..

Anyway, Glashutte have been feeling nostalgic so here are some details on their bright yellow, limited edition, 70s homage chrono, called the Panorama;

With its distinctive case this chronograph captures the essence of the design icons of the 1970s: Dynamic lines and flowing curves lend it an authentic and retro-modern character.

The dial was manufactured in-house and is coated entirely with yellow varnish. Super-LumiNova highlights on the hour and minute hands and on the appliques ensure optimal legibility in the dark as well.

A special sapphire crystal case back allows one to view the automatic movement Calibre 37-02, which has been finely finished. It features a column-wheel switch and was designed to be compact in order to ensure maximum stability.

It’s available with a leather strap or steel bracelet and the UK price is £12,600. Ouch.

Did Swiss watches cost the same as small cars in the 70s? No they did not, for example a Rolex Sub cost about $230 before local taxes in the early 70s. Even allowing for inflation that’s probably under two grand today – yep watches were cheap before everyone decided that buying a Rolex was a sign that you’d made it in life.

Just saying.

When Watchmakers Go Woke, They Will Reap The Whirlwind

We got a press release from Nomos Glashutte recently which had their hate speech and democracy policy attached. You might think that private companies have no busines trying to lecture their workforce, but we live in the age of the Great Reset, so no adult is allowed to form their own opinions anymore. Nomos then has joined a German government scheme to educate workers on internet threats.

Reading through phrases like `a new approach is needed to strengthen resiliency among adults against outside threats,’ or `The flood of manipulated news and hate attacks on the internet is deepening the rifts in our society and distorts election campaigns.’ you can feel the cold dead hand of Left-wing wokeism, censorship and cancel culture seeping from every line.

As an experiment in free speech – which Nomos claim to support – we asked them three questions;

  1. Why do they feel the need to tell their employees what to think?
  2. If a Muslim states they think being gay is a sin, is this hate speech?
  3. If a woman states that she believes only a woman can give birth, not a man, is that fake information?

Here is their official response;

Many thanks for your e-mail. We don’t tell anyone what to think but we consider tolerance and openness to the world as a great asset. Without these values, NOMOS Glashütte, our company, would not exist as it is today. Gender equality is also non-negotiable for us. 

Not good is it? Fails to answer any of the very important points made on Trans vs Terfs and Islam vs LGBTQ.

You may think, why does this matter? It matters because millions died in WW2 as two great ideologies, fascism and communism fought for the hearts and minds of their followers – and to impose their brutal, genocidal worldview upon democracies. It matters because one in three adults in East Germany was acting as a snitch for the Stasi in the 80s It matters because people are losing their jobs in 2021, simply for expressing an opinion, or showing cartoons to school students.

Watch manufacturers should leave the politics to the howling mobs of trolls, hate-filled activists and paid shills on social media. Concentrate on making great watches.

The time to fight for freedom will come, but it won’t be against the mythical `far right’ that wokeists keep blathering on about. It will be against the corporate Quislings who enforce the suppression of free speech and turn workplace canteens and meeting rooms into sinister re-education camps that Stalin and Mao would be proud of.

We will all pay a terrible price for the death of free speech.

 

 

It’s Alright Baby Blue

This limited edition Viro model is one of those laidback designs that grows on you the more you look at it. It’s retro motorsport, yet still looks clean and modern. You can’t go wrong with Stoke pottery blue and white, offset with orange hands.

Here’s the word from Union Glashutte;

This special model, limited to 128 pieces, is a real eyecatcher. Its round 44 mm stainless steel case is equipped with smooth, easy-to-use push-buttons for starting, stopping and resetting short timing measurements.

The high-quality sapphire crystal provides clear view of the dial, thanks to its anti-reflective coating on both faces. The blue calfskin leather strap with large, sporty orange dimples and matching underside draw immediate attention to the wrist. For total versatility, the watch is also delivered with an interchangeable stainless steel bracelet.

The Union Glashütte Viro Chronograph Limited Edition Silvretta Classic 2021 skilfully combines total functionality and highly sporty appearance. The blue sub-dials of the 30-minute and 12-hour counters, date window and matching blue outer tachymeter scale beautifully offset the silver-coloured main dial area, with its small-second display at 9 o’clock and fine gradient finished indices.

The black nickel-plated hands with Super-LumiNova® coating ensure absolute clarity while bright red provides the necessary contrasts on the tip of the central stop second sweeper and the sub-dial indicators. This special chronograph is water-resistant up to a pressure of 10 bar.

Retails at £2330 in the UK. More info here. 

Union Averin Chrono: TAG Monaco Alternative?

This square case Averin chronograph from Union Glashutte – one of the many Swtch Group brands – channels the spirit of the TAG Monaco, but minus the 5K price ticket for the much admired Gulf Racing edition.

The Averin features a 41 x 41 mm pillow-shaped stainless steel case, which is arguably the perfect size for many wrists.

You get a domed sapphire crystal with rounded corners and anti-reflective coating inside and out. Then there’s that unique day/date display; To the left, surrounded by black relief embossing, are the month and week day displays, the small second, a 24-hour display with day-night indicator and moon phase, as well as chronograph counters with bright red hands.

Then there’s the moonphase window too, an extra detail that draws the eye into the dial. Maybe it’s slightly too busy? Maybe not. You have those satisfying chamfered pushers on the case, which are…shall we say a TAG homage detail? Yep, let’s leave it at that.

But it’s quirky and different for sure, plus the bold black n white dial theme really sets the watch apart in a sea of green and blue dial offerings this year from the big Swiss names.

Inside there’s an automatic UNG 25 calibre movement, which looks like a reworking of the famous Valjoux 7753. The UNG25 has an identical runing speed of 28,800vph and looks very similar in movement photos. Beautifully finished with a Union rotor and a smattering of blue anodised crews, plsu see-thru caseback.

Love the retro 70s Rally driver strap too, nice motorsport touch.

Taken all round, this is a refreshing change from a TAG Monaco and its myriad coloured dial editions. Don’t get me wrong, I love the classic lines of the TAG M, espcially the Gulf and blue dial models. But a price of over £5300 for something with a frankly ageing movement inside, is getting a bit silly.

The Union Averin retails at £2980 in the UK. A special edition for Scotland will be called the Haverin. That was a joke btw.

So we say, give this Union a look – could be a winner. More here.