Doxa Still Has Stocks of its Ltd Edition Army Diver

Doxa must still have a few of their limited edition Army Dive model knocking around, as they just sent us an email promo for it. Launched in April, it retails for 4200 euros, which is going to limit the market appeal. Great spec, true heritage, but that kind of price tag buys a nice pre-owned Breitling, TAG, Omega, JLC etc.

Here’s the word;

The legendary diver’s watch has never been reissued. Fifty years after its original launch, the DOXA Army is once again reporting for duty and this highly sought-after collectors’ watch will be available in a limited edition of just 100 pieces.

The DOXA Army is a timepiece like no other. When it was launched in 1969, it marked a turning point. By then, professional diving was steeped in history, but scientific diving and recreational diving were as yet emerging disciplines. And for both these disciplines, the professional instruments used by the military were not accessible as they were too expensive, or simply not distributed.

DOXA wanted to change that. Urs Eschle, head of product development, wanted to create a diver’s watch which could be bought and worn, and whose performance would cover all the diving conditions which were opening up back in the 1960s and 70s. And Eschle knew how to build a reliable team around him to achieve this aim. He recruited a team of professionals, including Claude Wesly, already a legend thanks to his missions with Jacques-Yves Cousteau. Together, they created the SUB 300 and SUB 300T.


DOXA capitalised on these foundations to develop its special relationship with the Swiss Army. A new model was designed. No longer the famous SUB, but a piece created specially for them. Its name: Army. Simple and efficient, like the piece itself. That is, in appearance at least; in reality, the DOXA Army hides its innovations well.

One such example is its black case. What seems quite commonplace to us nowadays was not the case 50 years ago, in an era when PVD and CVD did not exist. So, to improve the stealth of its Army model, DOXA had developed an ingenious process to coat the case, which was rather pioneering for watchmaking at that time: using steel blackened using a oxidation process. The colour is black and, most importantly, antireflective, enabling the military to evade detection by solar reflection. DOXA is also probably the first diver’s watch in the world to have developed such a treatment to make its cases more covert.

The matt black livery of the era is now no longer reproduced with oxidised steel, but with matt black ceramic. The original look has been recreated, but the new timepiece is more resistant and lightweight. DOXA has also extended the use of this state-of-the-art material to the unidirectional bezel, which is also made of ceramic.


On the dial side, the original design has been preserved, but the 1960s and 70s style luminescent indices are now in Super-LumiNova, for a brighter and more long-lasting effect. But it is probably the movement which has undergone the most spectacular transformation. The original hand-wound mechanical movement has now become self-winding. Formerly low frequency, it is now high frequency, with a beat rate of 28,800 VpH. Last but not least, it is certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The new DOXA Army is therefore officially a chronometer, a designation afforded to most advanced timepieces representing the epitome of Swiss Made precision.

Today, over 50 years after its original launch, DOXA is reissuing its iconic DOXA Army model in a limited edition of just 100 pieces, in collaboration with its Anglo-American partner, Watches of Switzerland.

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