In-House Movement At Gucci Shows Serious Intent

For years Gucci watches have used bought in movements and there’s nothing wrong with that. Many Swiss brands, even famous names, share movement tech and essentially re-brand or prettify an existing Valjoux 7750 or ETA 2824 engine.

Gucci are part of the French Kering Group, which also owns Girard Perregaux, Jean Richard and Ulysse Nardin, so they can develop their own movements and then customise them in different brands.  That also ticks the sustainability box as you’re sharing resources and limiting the use of one-time components.

So Gucci’s new watch, dubbed 25H offers a range of ladies, gents and inbetweeners. We like the 38mm model at £1250, as it’s competitively priced. But the downside is it features a quartz movement.

When you get to the automatics it’s more interesting; they use Swiss made movements which feature micro-rotors, made famous many decades ago by Buren and Dugena. The great thing about a micro rotor is that it keeps the case thin, so you get that classic 1960s slimline profile on the wrist.

There’s a tourbillon model too, although we couldn’t see any specs on the website just a photo.

A special range inspired by skateboarding, called Grip, also offers quartz models costing from £1150.

It won’t be easy for Gucci to shake off its reputation as a fashion brand first and watchmaker second. Say the name Gucci and people think of handbags, shoes, clothes and sunglasses, not beautifully made wristwatches.

If you look at resale values for models like the Gucci Pantheon, which is a decent Valjoux 7750 powered chrono, you can see that there’s a certain price point people will pay and that’s it. You never get the RRP back, even after 15 years. Watch collecting isn’t all about future values, but the fact is too many of these new Gucci models still look like slightly pretentious accessories, not watches.

The difference between a Cartier and a Gucci is huge.

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