Metroland Is a State of Mind

The latest watch from Nomos Glashutte is the largest variant of the  Metro model. Here’s the press info;

Metro neomatik 41 Update is the name of the in-house built watch, which was just unveiled at Watches and Wonders, the industry trade fair in Geneva. The timepiece embodies 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking craft—and contemporary design.

The Metro series from NOMOS Glashütte represents wristwatches with an almost archetypal flair: Finely detailed dial, domed sapphire crystal glass, diamond knurling on the crown. The newest and now the largest Metro was a welcome challenge for Mark Braun, and one which called for him to “incorporate a special complication into the design.”

The designer—who also works for KPM Berlin, Thonet, and Lobmeyr, and as a professor in Saarbrücken—had already created 13 versions of this popular watch before the 14th version, the Update variant, marked the pinnacle of the Metro story.

The new ring date from NOMOS Glashütte made its debut in 2018 with the classic watch model Tangente. And yet with its double row of indexes for minute and hour markers, Metro seems to have been destined to feature this patented date display—the fine, delicately precise character of the watch is emphasized by the date, which is set around the dial.

To contrast the neon orange that frames the current date, the color of the indexes was reduced: “That way the watch is at once simple and sophisticated,” explains Mark Braun. The sporty effect of orange is archetypal and yet, in tandem with the gray accents, very modern. A dash of gold in the typography, barely perceivable let alone visible, adds a touch of refinement that is entirely in line with the overall aesthetic.

As Mark Braun puts it: “For me, Metro Update is quality in the form of a watch, and a masterpiece of understatement.”

Price is £3500 in the UK, case diameter 40.5mm, steel case and sapphire crystal.  It has a see-thru caseback and the decorated movement actually looks very good.

Verdict: This typical German watch is understated and functional, almost like a pocket watch case on the wrist. The only question mark long term is resale values, as Nomos is – and will probably always be – a niche brand for collectors.

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