German watches

New Watches: NOMOS Glashutte Lambda Trio

The latest press info from NOMOS Glashutte;

A new stainless steel case, a new size, new dials in enamel white, black, and blue, and regulated according to chronometer standards: In short, that’s what makes these three new timepieces celebrating 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking special. Each colorway is limited to 175 pieces, and each individual watch is crafted using the traditional techniques of this historic town.

The enamel gloss of the dials offers an unusual optical depth; an effect enhanced by the curve of the dial and sapphire crystal glass. The highly-polished steel, rarely found in fine watchmaking, makes these watches suitable for everyday wear. The name Lambda stands for “intrinsic values” in mathematics—in other words, for a value that remains constant. For those who like a clean, 50s Modernist sort of design, NOMOS have got this one spot-on, with a kind of geometry exam paper vibe.

Lambda features a complication: the power reserve indicator. It sweeps an arc across the dial and tracks 84 hours, or three-and-a-half days, accurate to the hour. The four needle-thin hands give this watch model a graceful elegance—with fine features reminiscent of a kinetic sculpture.

The polished case of the watch frames the dial with a slender bezel, while the transition from the side to the back of the case is a radiodrome; that is, a curve with a shrinking radius. The lugs reflect the curved form of the case as well.

The mechanical movement is also something special. Lambda is powered by DUW 1001, and is the first caliber to bear the title “Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte.” A large, slender caliber with twin mainspring barrels, 29 jewels within ensure flawless functioning—with six of them in hand-polished screwed chatons, reflecting traditional watchmaking. All edges are also polished by hand, with black polishing on individual steel parts.

The fine sunburst polishing on the three-quarter plate is eye-catchingly beautiful: a polish that is only found in NOMOS timepieces, and has become a part of traditional Glashütte watchmaking since Lambda. By contrast, the regulatory system of screw balance and swan neck fine adjustment in this model has its roots in history. The spring of the swan neck fine adjustment is positioned on top of the balance cock. This reads “Lovingly produced in Glashütte” in German—a message hand-engraved by a highly skilled watchmaker. And another example of the town’s rich heritage.

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