Longines Heritage Tuxedo – Bit Too Retro?

OK, not sure about this Longines Tuxedo model. First, it has an uncanny resemblance to the Triumph/Ingersoll pocket watches of the 1950s/60s, with its bold black and white dial design, and striking chapter ring numerals.

That’s no bad thing, but the sub-second dial and plain jane looks of the three-hand model are going to be a problem for some buyers we reckon, mainly because it looks so much like a vintage watch from 60 years ago – in fact, let’s be blunt, at first glance this Tuxedo could look like a low cost vintage watch. It isn’t that impressive for the money. Just an opinion, please don’t cancel us on Twitter.

The chrono version of the Heritage Tuxedo is a sharper looking customer for sure, although we would still take a vintage Valjoux 7733 chronograph for £500-£1000 over this new Longines at £2200 any day.

The best price we saw for the Tuxedo 3-hand auto online was £1480 at Jura watches, which makes this an expensive alternative to owning a genuine, vintage Longines Conquest automatic for example, which might be around £1000-£1200 for a mint example.

Here’s the press info fromLongines;

Longines celebrates the carefree spirit of the late 1940s. After the harsh war came a time of prosperity and celebration. Elegance was back in fashion; men wore suits and women wore recently-introduced nylon stockings. People got dressed up to go out and dance to the rhythm of jazz bands. The new Longines Heritage Classic – Tuxedo creations – one with 3 hands and the other featuring a chronograph – are inspired by two historic pieces designed in the spirit of their time, modernised.

Longines offers two new models inspired by historical pieces with the typical aesthetics of the regained freedom of the late 1940s. You can easily imagine it on the wrist of partygoers at jazz clubs. They have been nicknamed “Tuxedo” by collectors, the contrast of black and white on their dial reminds us of the suits worn during the elegant and festive evenings of the time.

To respect the spirit of the original models, Longines has chosen here not to add the word “Automatic” on the dials. In keeping with the aim to create timepieces that are as faithful as possible to historical timepieces, there is also no date window on contemporary models, which are presented on semi-matt black leather straps, perfectly in keeping with the spirit of the era.

The Longines Heritage Classic – Tuxedo is available in two versions: a 3-hand model and a chronograph model.

The former stands out for the aesthetics of its dial, a typical and very popular design from the 1940s. An opaline silver disc surrounded by a sublime matt black circle of thin baton hands covered with Super-LumiNova®. The small seconds counter, located at 6 o’clock, is off-centre: this detail contributes to the charm of this 38.50 mm-diameter timepiece housing the exclusive L893.5 movement with its silicon balance spring, a guarantee of quality and precision.

The chronograph version displays matt black, opaline and midnight blue, colours as elegant as they are refined. Several zones feature on its dial, and a tachymetric scale – quite rare for a Longines watch – also enriches its circumference, just like on the original model. The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph – Tuxedo houses in its 40.00 mm-diameter case a movement (calibre L895.5) developed exclusively for Longines Heritage timepieces. It is also equipped with a silicon balance spring.

With its two new models in contrasting black and white, The Longines Heritage Classic – Tuxedo brings us back to a colourful era that brought back parties!

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