Best Swiss watches

Latest AP Royal Oaks Are Gunning For Rolex

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The latest incarnations of the famous AP Royal Oak seem to be very much a complete model range, covering lots of bases. Plus they fitted a brand new in-house calibre. Now that’s a statement that other luxury watch brands cannot ignore.

Consider this too; if people are willing to pay 15-18K for a Submariner to jump a queue, then maybe they could stretch to 20K for an AP?

For this 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, there are 34, 37, 38 and 41mm variations in case width. They also feature hads that are larger on the larger cases, so in proportion basically. The bracelet links got slightly slimmer and the caseback is sort of chamfered a little more, tucked away for comfort on the wrist.

The edges on the case are slightly recessed now as it aims towards the bracelet pins, just to give it a real balance and symmetry. It’s like AP have been taking a Grand Seiko to pieces at the factory to study engineering harmony. Not that they need lessons, but just…you know, like Kawasaki tore apart an MV Agusta racing 500 to build their Z1 in the 60s/70s.

Sensibly they haven’t messed with that Genta classic octagonal case shape, or messed up the waffle dial effect either. Some things are just design signatures, like the toothy grille on a BMW, or the bite-me Apple logo.

For luxury fans of AP there is a diamond bezel model, the Bleu Nuit, which has a special coating on the dial. Here’s the AP press info;

In tribute to the original model from 1972, a vast number of references across the Royal Oak collection now welcome the iconic “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” for their “Petite” or “Grande Tapisserie” dial.

Although originally achieved through galvanic bath, the dial’s “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” shade is obtained today through PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) to ensure a more homogeneous colour across the collection.

CALIBRE 5900

Now this is clever; they put the Cal 5900 movement in the 37mm watch, so demand will build up for a 39/40mm version later on. Love that 50th logo rotor too.

The new selfwinding hour, minute and second movement, Calibre 5900, debuts in the 37 mm collection, while all chronograph models in 41 mm are now powered by Calibre 4401, the Manufacture’s latest integrated flyback chronograph.

Calibre 5900 is thinner and endowed with a higher frequency compared to Calibre 3120, which it replaces. It also offers 60 hours of power reserve.

Prices start at £20,300 for the entry level 37mm Royal Oak model.

More here.

 

Micro Brands

Deals: Boldr Odyssey 500m Dive Watches With $100 Off

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The latest from Boldr, who have four new dive models in the pipeline;

Make way for a bright new collection of Lumicast® Odysseys! We’re releasing two Odyssey Bronze and two Odyssey Stainless Steel models that are locked & loaded with features fit for a deep dive adventure.

Rated for 500m water resistance, its raised 3D style Lumicast® dial markers provide superior luminescence, both above and under water.

Odyssey lovers are in for a pre-order treat of $100 OFF your purchase, ending 7th February, shipping from 8th February. PLUS, subscribers can claim an additional 10% discount on the total price!

Just enter this code at checkout: 90W0DTQQJS2F

Limited to 100 pieces per model, book yours NOW on boldrsupply.co

Get all the information here:

https://www.boldrsupply.co/collections/odyssey-45-lumicast

Best Swiss watches

TAG Aquaracer Pro 200 Breaks Cover

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The latest from TAG is a 200m depth rated Aquaracer. But should you splash out on the 300m instead? Hmm, tricky.

Here’s the word from TAG;

TAG Heuer returns to the reborn Aquaracer Professional Series with the Aquaracer Professional 200, a bold, stylish, all-terrain luxury tool watch that continues the rich legacy of the historic
Swiss Manufacture’s high-functioning sports watch, which began four decades ago.

The Aquaracer Professional 200 will be available with either a 40mm or 30mm stainless steel case. Every model will have a uni-directional rotating bezel with twelve facets, water resistance to 200 metres, and either an automatic mechanical or quartz
movement.

Comparing the Aquaracer Professional 200 and 300

The relationship between the Aquaracer Professional 200
and Aquaracer Professional 300 is easily defined. Both have the famous and now upgraded bezel with twelve facets first introduced in 1995; both feature a refined, repeating horizontal line dial decoration; both have sculpted, chamfered, shorter lugs with brushed and polished finishes; both are fitted with a three-link bracelet, and both have a screw-down crown with twelve facets and protection.


Closer inspection reveals a series of subtle, but definitive differences, all of which give the Aquaracer Professional
200 its unique character and versatility.

For example, the Aquaracer Professional 200 is appreciably more compact at 40mm (compared to 43mm), with the further option of a
smaller 30mm case. The bezel still features a diving scale, only now it’s engraved into a steel insert, rather than one in ceramic.

The central bracelet link is polished rather than brushed, lending the Aquaracer Professional 200 its more formal feel, intended to help it cross codes, from sea to mountain, via the office and a weekend hangout.

The differences continue in the display geometry. Where the Aquaracer Professional 300 has octagonal hour markers, an oversized hour hand, and yellow detailing, the Aquaracer Professional 200 adopts more classic sports watch codes with straight-edged, trapezoidal hour markers, sleeker sword-shaped hands, and crisp white detailing.

For dial legibility, the hour markers and hands are still coated with
Super-LumiNova, but to create a more sartorial look, no luminescent material has been applied to the bezel.

PRICES – WORTH THE EXTRA FOR THE PRO 300?

Prices? The Aquaracer 200 Pro Quartz mens model is £1600 in the UK and the 200m automatic is £2200. That isn’t outrageous compared to some Swiss watches, where we have seen some rapid price rises in the last year as the market has boomed during lockdowns.

Let’s be brutally honest, it’s an extra £50 for the Pro 300m automatic version, so yeah, why bother with the Pro 200?

Japanese Watches

Seiko: The King Has Not Left The Building

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Latest news release from Seiko, the revived King Seiko will retail at around 1700 euros;

The 1960s was a decade of unprecedented advances for Seiko, both in terms of technical development and design creativity.

Alongside Grand Seiko, one other series demonstrated the company’s ability to create beautifully designed and finished mechanical watches with high accuracy. It was called King Seiko. In addition to its precision, it offered a powerful yet graceful design that symbolized the high quality of its construction.

Today, after more than half a century, the King Seiko collection is back with timepieces that showcase the lasting quality of Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking. The first collection comprises five new timepieces, all of which will be available from February 2022 at the Seiko Boutiques and selected retailers worldwide.

The lasting design values of 1965. The technology and engineering of today.

The 1965 KSK, the design that defined King Seiko.

The five new watches share a distinctively sharp and angular design that is inspired by the 1965 King Seiko KSK, which was the second series to be created and the one that defined the character of King Seiko. The combination of a flat dial with faceted indexes and broad, razor-edged hands gives the watch a refined and striking presence. The bold, faceted lugs have sharp angles and wide flat surfaces that feature both mirror and hairline finishing, creating a sense of precision. The twelve o’clock index is more than twice the width of the others and has a patterned texture specially crafted to ensure high legibility and to give the dial a bright sparkle that invites the eye.

The new creations present a classic yet modern profile inspired by the 1965 KSK.

The case is constructed so that, combined with the boxed-shaped sapphire crystal, it gives each watch a slim and elegant feel. An anti-reflective coating on the inner surface of the crystal delivers high legibility from any angle.

The bracelet pays homage to the design of the original King Seiko series and its many bevelled surfaces reflect the light in a way that is dynamic and ever-changing. Powered by Caliber 6R31, the watch delivers a power reserve of 70 hours and is water resistant to 100 meters.

The crown and case back bear the new King Seiko emblem whose design was inspired by that of the 1965 KSK.

Five watches, five dial colors and a range of straps.

The new collection contains five watches, each with the same case but a different dial color. One is in the original silver tone of the 1965 KSK, and versions in lightgray, charcoal gray, brown and red complete the range. The lightgray dial has a delicate hairline pattern, while the other four have a beautiful sunray finish that gives the watches a special warmth and depth.

 

Five alternative leather straps specially designed for the new collection will be introduced. To see what each combination of strap and watch looks like, please click here:
www.seikowatches.com/global-en/products/kingseiko/special/simulator/

Japanese Watches

Namoki MODS: Gold Cases, Handy Discount Code

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Namoki Mods has sent us info on their gold coloured cases for Seiko projects. If you’re building a MOD watch then there’s a handy 22% off in the January Sale too. Here’s the word on the Tuna model case;

Gold Finish is our take on one of the most original and iconic (some would say extreme) dive watch designs released by Seiko. Now you can cook up your own Tuna in any style you like.

Not just a pretty face, the Tuna was (and still is!) an engineering marvel designed to solve issues professional divers faced at extreme depths, producing many industry firsts – it’s iconic shroud, vented straps and L-gaskets just being a few. If you want to learn more about about the history, design and legacy of the Tuna, we did an excellent Dive Deep article that you can find here.

Case Specifications:
Diameter: 44mm
Lug to Lug: 46.5mm
Thickness: 11.3mm (without caseback)
Lug Width: 22mm

Features:
– Case Bundle includes Bezel and Crown
– 316L Surgical Grade Stainless Steel Construction
– Fits all original and aftermarket SKX007/SRPD mod parts (except bracelet)
– Water Resistance as OEM

Each case comes in a set inclusive of:
– 2 x 22mm Spring Bars
– 1 x Bezel Click Spring
– 1 x Crystal Gasket
– 1 x Caseback Gasket

Micro Brands

REC TTT Has a Little Bit of Great Escapement. See What We Did There?

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REC watches has a new model for motorcycle fans, the TTT, which has recycled clutch plate parts inside, salvaged from a famous motorcycle used in The Great Escape. Yes, that Bud Ekins /McQueen Triumph – or at least one of `em, since most sources agree three bikes were used for the movie scenes and the rehearsal jumps over the wire.

This particular Triumph TR6 machine found its way to a Norfolk farmer in the 60s once the movie was in the can, who passed it onto a farm worker, who decided to just let it rust away in a barn before restoration took place. The original clutch plates were replaced and therefore, we have REC using those parts in this watch. Collectable as hell we would say, since anything with Steve McQueen connections fetches big money one day.

Here’s the word from REC;

Our aim in creating the TTT Escape timepiece was to
establish a link between the design and functionality of this
unique motorcycle.

Along with the TR6 components used in the dial, multiple
references to the bike’s design are also built into the TTT Escape. These include the dark-green color scheme used on the
dial, rotor and strap inner lining, and the bike’s licence plate as
seen in the movie (WH-13371), which appears at 5 o’clock on
the inner dial.

Each TTT timepiece features a dual inner/outer case
construction that lets the wearer turn the entire dial to switch
between RIDE and DRESS mode. In RIDE mode, the 12 o’clock
marker is shifted 30 degrees clockwise to centre it in the rider’s
field of vision.

The semi-openworked sandwich dial and exhibition case let you look straight through the balance wheel and beyond, echoing the “naked” design of the TR6’s engine.

The polished wire lugs, which protrude from the contrasting vertically-brushed outer case, closely resemble the bike’s exhaust pipes. Each watch is individually numbered on the left side of the case.

The skeletonized SW200-1 movement has been developed and customized in collaboration with Sellita, and features ruthenium plating and a custom rotor inspired by the spoked wheels, with a sunburst-finished oscillating weight.

The watch retails at just under £1500.

More here

 

Micro Brands

Gevril Launch Lenox Automatics

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Gevril has launched the Lenox range, featuring a Swiss automatic movement, which has a kinda odd name; M39D6. Nope, never heard of it, but it looks nice via the see-thru caseback. Could be a modded Sellita/ETA 2824 but we just don’t know. That dished rotor looks very similar to the ETA 2824, which why we take a guess on that venerable base movement being the starting point on this watch.

Here’s the word;

Gevril’s newest Lenox collection epitomizes what it means to be a luxury and a staple. Holding two ideas at once, the Lenox is stunning in its simplicity, bold in its design. Sturdy and reliable while oozing upscale confidence and zeal, this is Lenox.

High-end watches need not be staid, and Lenox is anything but. After its Manhattan namesake, the collection is rich in history featuring Swiss Automatic Movement and culturally prominent with its tachymeter, multi-function month, day and date indicator.

Perfect for putting on the Ritz or taking in the jazz scene, this collection is charming in its masculine ease. The 44mm stainless steel case with exhibition back speaks to the past while the day/date window and luminous hands and markers call to the future.

Lenox is a grand timepiece with little time for ostentatiousness because while money talks, wealth whispers. An affluent take on deep cultural roots, Lenox is a daily testament to who you aspire to be.

They’re pricing these new models at over $4000 on the Gevril website but if you follow Secret Sales in the UK you will get one for a fraction of that perice – eventually.

More here.

Classic Swiss

Mondaine Essence: Swiss Style, Green Credentials

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Mondaine just launched its Essence Collection, which is all about sustainable wath manufacturing, with PET packaging, and a rubber strap with a cork lining no less. Plus there’s a bit of castor oil in the case material.

Available in mens n ladies, the mens watches are 41mm across, and you can choose blue, black, white or green dial colourways. These are quartz models, with mineral crystals by the way.

Retail is about $195-$220, which makes them the cheapest Mondaines in their current line-up.

More here.

Watch market news

Crafter Blue Clasp Has The Edge

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Yes engineering can be a tad dull, especially if you’re being lectured by a woke guy with a penchant for undersea impeller drives, arranged as a tidal barrage across the Humber estuary. I mean who really cares if half the lights go out in Hull?

But watch engineering is different. It’s about achieving harmonious perfection in the case of Grand Seiko, or art for art’s sake when Jaeger Le Coultre fancy making a repeating bejewelled pocket watch with a hummingbird perched upon the balance wheel. Or it might be striving for 4000m of depth resistance when Delma build a bathyscape in miniature.

In all these things, details matter, they are the sum of all knowledge accrued and tested over decades.

So when Crafter Blue sent us this photo of a new 18mm diameter clasp we thought, yeah, that is nice work indeed.

Brushed steel finish, flush fit on the foldover section and a beefy looking metal spigot to fasten it securely. When you are selling a clasp for dive watches, it cannot really have any sloppy joe type weak areas. Has to be tighter than a duck’s chuff, as they say in Wakefield Yorkshire.

Here is some blurb from Crafter Blue on the matter;

The material used for manufacturing this iconic clasp is 316L stainless steel which is the absolute best steel class that one can use for watch products.

The “L” in “316L” stands for low carbon which ultimately means that the quality of steel is higher than normal as it has less carbon percentage.

Equipping your watch with this high-quality stainless-steel clasp instantly enhances the overall quality and reliability of your watch.

  • Premium Finishing

Not only is the material used for the class high-quality, but its fishing is also top-notch. Made with stainless steel, the finishing of the clasp is super-smooth and shiny giving your watch the premium touch that you so heartfully desire.

  • Aesthetically Pleasing look

Just like all the different products that Crafter Blue makes, the aesthetics have been given special attention to in the design of the clasp as set flawlessly into the watch design and enhance the overall look of the watch to make it look more aesthetically pleasing.

  • Size and features

The clasp has double locks and is made for strap or bracelet size of 18mm with 6 adjustment holes. The most suitable strap thickness for the clasp is 4-5mm with its approximate overall weight being 30g.

Find out more here.

Micro Brands

Knoy This: Kartel’s Knoydart Is Back

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OK, I hear you say, I never knew it went away. But in the world of Indie watch manufacturing most smaller companies invest in a production run, sell the stock and then figure out if it’s worth placing another order. Obviously the tartan strap Knoydart was a hit for Kartel and so this chunky 43mm chronograph is back on the website.

Inside is a Miyota auto movement, so you have that reliability factor baked in.

Priced at £205, it also helps save the oceans by recycling some recovered plastic waste into that tartan strap material. The black Milanese metal bracelet variant is £215.

Here’s the word from Kartel;

The Knoydart watch is the new star in Kartel’s crown, the 43mm case Chronograph watch is a major addition to our range, adding a new functionality with its stopwatch, and a stunning dial design capturing the essence of Kartel.

This model features a gunmetal case and white dial featuring luminous hour and minute hands and pale blue second hand, on a Royal Stewart tartan pattern lambswool strap. The dial features dual sub-dials, displaying seconds and minutes, and a simple date window showing the date.

This model features our best-selling all-black colour scheme with a black case and dial featuring luminous hour and minute hands and an orange second hand, on a black chain mesh metal strap. The dial features dual sub-dials, displaying seconds and minutes with contrasting orange hands, and a simple date window showing the date.